Turn key and no start, no click at all. Changed key tumbler and starter relay yet nothing still. Ran hot wire to starter solenoid fires right up and can drive a couple miles then truck dies. This is my only vehicle to Doctors please help

 

Wow, there's no many things it could be. I suspect you have more than one issue. When it dies, will it restart with starting fluid? You might have a bad ignition switch. That is NOT the key and lock cylinder. The switch is down on the steering column. There is a rod from the lock cylinder to activate it most times. It's been years since I've dealt with one of these. You might also have issues with your brain box. This is the engine controller. Unless you're running a performance box, they are one size fits all.

Where are you located? Someone on here might be near enough to look at your truck.

 

. Didn't use any starting fluid just sat in this Florida heat for 20 mins tapped the starter relay with a wrench and then hit the solenoid wire to battery and it starts, I'm scratching my head over this one. I checked my ground and fusible links and all is good so I'm hoping it may be the ignition switch (not tumbler) I had a quadruple bypass and need to get to the appointments. I thank you for your advice

 

I've worked on so many of these from different years, I don't remember where the relay is on these. Is it on the drivers fender or the starter itself? My '96 is totally different from 12 years and a major redesign.

 

Yes it's on the driver fender, I ordered a new ignition switch and it will be here tomorrow. I checked all ground and fuse and links all are good so after changing tumbler and starter relay with no luck I'm crossing my fingers it's the ignition switch

 

One really aggravating issues these puppies often had was a failed ballast resistor. From 1972 until the OBD I units came out in the late 1980's, guys who worked on their own Chrysler products with electronic ignition carried a spare ballast resistor wrapped in a towel in their tool box. It's a white porcelain job, usually on the firewall with wire connectors on each end. Some came from the factory with two wires but I always changed them to one wire on each end. This cuts the 12 volts from the battery down a bit for the coil. I had one fail once and when I removed it from the firewall, it was blistered on the back. Sometimes they just broke inside and you got an open circuit.

 

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No start

 

Is this a 'no start', or 'no crank' issue? If it's 'no crank', then the ballast resistor has nothing to do with that.

 

Is this an automatic? If yes the neutral safety switch may be the issue.

 

Like I said originally, it could be several things. If it is the neutral safety switch, it may start in neutral if not park.