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Not getting any fire to the dist.....HELP

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:23 AM
  #21  
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1987PowerRam150318
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I have a 318 carburated by a Holley 2280. The pins are 10 and 14, not 10 and 12. That is why I am having such a hard time trying to math those versus any that I find on that site. Sure they all look close (the TBI) but I do not know if they are right since there are two less connectors. BOTH WIRING HARNESSES THAT I AM DESCRIBING ARE DIRECTLY ATTACHED UNDERNEATH THE DRIVER'S SIDE QUARTER PANEL/FENDER. Am I supposed to look for the one under behind the heater on the passenger side to determine the other pinout?

Thank Y'all again!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SEAL
Charlie
I don't know if he has a TBI or carburetor as he has not said one way or the other. Were there any TBI engines for 1985-1987? I don't know. I also don't know if his system is stock. What I do know is that the systems I tried to point him to were used in 1985-1987 and seem to match what he is describing, no matter what they are called. From what you have posted you seem to have the same setup in the same year as he does Charlie. What system is in yours?
They didn't use throttle body injection on the 318 until 1988.
To the best of my knowledge there is only the computer in the left fender on this system.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by charlie1935
They didn't use throttle body injection on the 318 until 1988.
To the best of my knowledge there is only the computer in the left fender on this system.

It's carburated, lol. I am going to post pictures. I replaced the computer this morning and still no nothing to the coil.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:44 PM
  #24  
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Tested with a voltmeter and we are getting power to the coil, just not out of it. I am replacing the coil today, again.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #25  
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Ok I replaced the coil, but do not have anyone here to help me check if there is current coming from the coil. I replaced the computer today, it hung from two bolts, and had a 10 and 14 pin connector. Are there any other electrical components that I an at least look for? We followed the coil wire back to the battery, it just runs along the firewall... Please help!

I really really need some help here. Either that or if there is a more active forum, please guide me to it? I sincerely appreciate it!

Essentially, we just found out we're pregnant and I have already spent a couple grand on a truck and now it's not running. We need to move into a house and this truck is our vehicle. Please please please help.
 

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #26  
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Turned the ignition to the on position and when I momentarily touch a wire from the coil's ground to a engine ground, there is spark. So the coil is good right? What the heck is next?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #27  
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Have you checked the air gap on the reluctor in the dist.?
Need a brass feeler gauge for that.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by charlie1935
Have you checked the air gap on the reluctor in the dist.?
Need a brass feeler gauge for that.
Will that matter if the coil wire isn't even sparking?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:54 PM
  #29  
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Oh BTW I have a single plate coil. If I need to adjust it to get the coil to spark, just say the word and I will do it!!!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:37 PM
  #30  
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Try setting the air gap at .006.
My Hayne and Chiltons give the same clearance.
Brass feeler guage is best. Steel will stick due to magnetism.
 
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