Hey guys I had my car sitting for the last 6 months through winter but with regular start ups.

Cars a
99 Dodge Avenger 2.5L V6
w/ intake, exhaust mods etc.

So recently I fire her up and she sounds like complete garbage, idling rough after 10 minutes of regular idling, and stalling after driving for a minute. The rough noise has faded since spark plug replacement, but idling still sounds like ****.

I had spark plugs done, new fuel filter, checked the fuel pump, new map sensor, oil change with new filter, brand new battery. Now the OBD was reading something about a cap rotor in the shop.

I'm 99% sure they're referring to the Distributor cap & rotor. Do you think that this could be causing my stalling/idling issues?

It sounds absolutely delicious when idling but after 10 minutes she ****s out.

Also , with the mis understanding from the shop I cannot find the damn OBD hookup. I thought it was by the passenger kick panel but I am wrong and it's not clearly visable under the steering wheel.

Also is the cap/rotor a quick fix?

Thanks guys! I cant wait for her to be running ace again.

 

If the distributor hasn't been replaced in the last year or so, now would be a good time to do so.

It would be a good idea to clean your throttle body and check your IAC. They also play a role in how well the car idles.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I have cleaned my throttlebody and have checked the IAC. IAC is in good working order, and the cap and rotor have not been changed since I owned the car, approx a year and a half.

No idea when the previous owner did, he did keep the car maintained.

The diagnostics is saying cap and rotor so that leads me to the assumption that it is those 2 things, mainly the rotor.

If the rotors bad that would cause stalling after driving/idling up as it can't provide enough electricity to keep the motor up. How ever when I pop it into neutral and give her some gas sometimes she returns to normal.

Pretty sure the rotor and cap are my issue, will keep you updated as my parts were stuck in the US for 12 days thanks to usps.

Go canada!

 

block off the EGR and see if idle improves
Since it has been sitting inspect the tubing /vacumn hoses they may have split or been eaten by mice/rodents

 

Now rodents what so ever roam around at -40.

Today I'll be checking EGR, cleaning everything, checking the catalytic converter to see if there's build.

The car idles and sounds like a dream, but after 20 minutes she starts sputtering.

I can fire it up, have it sound awesome and take it for a spin, the minute I let loose on the throttle down the road and let off she stalls.

Hopefully gonna start getting to the bottom of this asap before my rims arrive

/e Cap and rotor did not fix the problem and I am getting no CEL at all, stuck fishing in the dark.

Recap of everything that's been done

TB Clean
Intake filter cleaned
Spark plugs
MAP Sensor ( Diagnostics found issue so re&re'd it )
Checked throttle sensor
Checked IAC sensor
Distributor Cap and rotor ( Diagnostics found issue so re&re'd it )

Today :

Checking EGR
Checking Catalytic converter

Before my issue had started I changed my battery terminal clamps and wondering if I had jiggled the ground too loose somewhere... Idk that was the most recent thing I did to the car before my issue started so may as well start there.

 

So I think its fair to say that my EGR needs a re and re.
Pretty rusted out, I am hoping that this is the culprit but cannot be sure until replaced and tested Wish it would give me a CEL of some kind ffs.

 

Block off the egr on the rear of the manifold mines been blocked for years

 

Can one block off the EGR?

Not very mechanically inclined my self.

I'll google that **** and if I cant find anything I'll check back tomorrow for someones help, thanks venge!

 

on the passenger side rear of the manifold there is a tube coming up , held on by two bolts , remove the two bolts and make a solid gasket out of light metal and reinstall with the gasket

 

Oook So I have achieved in blocking off the EGR, no success.

Car fired up, sounded great. Could hear good air flow through my cold air, can constantly rev her up while in Park, the minute I release the gas she drops to 1000 rpms and holds steady.

So I decide to cycle the transmission, Going from Park, To Reverse, To Nuetral, To drive, 2nd, 1st and Back up to park.

When I got back to park after the cycle and rev'd her up she died immediately.

Getting no codes what so ever, so I am taking her to my friends shop to hook up to a Computer Diagnostics Program so we can test everything and find out exactly WHERE this motherb*tch is lacking -.-.

All means must come to an end, weather its on the carlift and down the road, or off a cliff in a bursting ball of fire....Dont worry, I will post a video for you guys. & After all, I do own 2 venges so even if I burn this one out of frustration, I still have one .


On Another note, Does anyone know wich Ignition lock housing pieces are compatable for the 99 avenger v6 auto? I had to drill out my last lock cylinder and when doing this, I had hit the housing piece directly behind it...

Short of forking out 3-400$ for a new steering column just for 1 little metal piece, I'm curious if anyone has one or has knowledge of what other vehicles I can go to the yard and pull one out and have it work.

If you're not sure wich piece I am talking about, look up Ignition switch w/ lock housing, its the piece directly behind the Lock cylinder that the cylinder sits in.... Might even just try to get the piece machined, probably cheaper then ordering a column.