P2004 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1
#1
02-23-2019, 08:22 PM
P2004 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1
Gals and Guys,
Today is the day that I filled up (1/2 tank) with Ethanol Free Gasoline and as soon as I started my 2008 Dodge Avenger SE with the 2.4 Liter Gasoline Engine, the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on!
Dropped off the family at the house and took it to the nearest Auto Parts Store and they hooked it up and the discovery of P2004 came up without any other Codes.
Is it the Gasoline (Ethanol Free) with 89 Octane or is it truly a condition that the Sensor is struck or Bank 1 Runner is dirty?
I am not about to purchase anything as these are very costly and found this video posted back in 2015 with a nice gentleman who shared his work on FIXING (Cleaning) and it worked!
What Say YOU?
Today is the day that I filled up (1/2 tank) with Ethanol Free Gasoline and as soon as I started my 2008 Dodge Avenger SE with the 2.4 Liter Gasoline Engine, the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on!
Dropped off the family at the house and took it to the nearest Auto Parts Store and they hooked it up and the discovery of P2004 came up without any other Codes.
Is it the Gasoline (Ethanol Free) with 89 Octane or is it truly a condition that the Sensor is struck or Bank 1 Runner is dirty?
I am not about to purchase anything as these are very costly and found this video posted back in 2015 with a nice gentleman who shared his work on FIXING (Cleaning) and it worked!
What Say YOU?
Last edited by guapoman2000; 02-24-2019 at 07:02 AM.
#2
02-24-2019, 09:43 PM
#3
02-26-2019, 06:06 AM
I am just completely disappointed with the newly designed cars out there and as an example, my daughter's 2008 Dodge Avenger with Electrically activated Manifold Runners in each Intake Manifold port.
DEFINITION: Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) is an electrically actuated system consisting of a motorized actuator with an attaching linkage for each housing on each bank. ... The motorized actuator houses internal switches to provide feedback to the power train control module (PCM), indicating linkage and plate (Flapper Doors) position.
All is okay until one of the Runners get stuck in the OPEN position and CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is seen and now you are stuck with a very expensive Repair Bill. Many have taken OFF the PLASTIC Intake Manifold and clean with various liquids such as Carburetor Cleaner etc...etc... only to have the same issue a month after doing all that work.
The only solution is to purchase the entire Intake Manifold Assembly which includes the control valve!!!I am presently trying to determine what is my next course of action and I have been on the telephone with the Dealer and Dealer's Service Manager to see what sort of $$$$ estimate they can come up with citing from a good customer.I have never heard any car having flapper doors within Intake Manifolds and thereby, it is incredible what garbage Automobile Designer's are producing so, be careful on what you buy! Later!
DEFINITION: Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) is an electrically actuated system consisting of a motorized actuator with an attaching linkage for each housing on each bank. ... The motorized actuator houses internal switches to provide feedback to the power train control module (PCM), indicating linkage and plate (Flapper Doors) position.
All is okay until one of the Runners get stuck in the OPEN position and CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is seen and now you are stuck with a very expensive Repair Bill. Many have taken OFF the PLASTIC Intake Manifold and clean with various liquids such as Carburetor Cleaner etc...etc... only to have the same issue a month after doing all that work.
The only solution is to purchase the entire Intake Manifold Assembly which includes the control valve!!!I am presently trying to determine what is my next course of action and I have been on the telephone with the Dealer and Dealer's Service Manager to see what sort of $$$$ estimate they can come up with citing from a good customer.I have never heard any car having flapper doors within Intake Manifolds and thereby, it is incredible what garbage Automobile Designer's are producing so, be careful on what you buy! Later!
Last edited by guapoman2000; 02-26-2019 at 06:26 AM.
#4
02-26-2019, 06:13 AM
One Local Dodge Dealer here in Central Florida quoted me a Whopper of
$ 1,347.01
This includes the entire Intake Manifold Assembly with the Runner Controller and Parts quoted me $ 634.80 Big ones!
Presently, I am struggling between two part numbers: 04884495AK & 04884882AE
According to one on-line Dealer web site: (MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE!!! )
https://www.moparsalesdirect.com/?p=...ake%20manifold
It indicates that the AK is the one I need to order, however, the local dealer says it's the AE.
Got to run down the part numbers a little more based on the VIN.
More to come! What a Pain in the ASHE!
$ 1,347.01
This includes the entire Intake Manifold Assembly with the Runner Controller and Parts quoted me $ 634.80 Big ones!
Presently, I am struggling between two part numbers: 04884495AK & 04884882AE
According to one on-line Dealer web site: (MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE!!! )
https://www.moparsalesdirect.com/?p=...ake%20manifold
It indicates that the AK is the one I need to order, however, the local dealer says it's the AE.
Got to run down the part numbers a little more based on the VIN.
More to come! What a Pain in the ASHE!
Last edited by guapoman2000; 02-26-2019 at 06:30 AM.
#5
02-26-2019, 02:47 PM
Hello again good people!
Called an independent Auto Repair Shop in Orlando, Florida and they gave me an estimate over the telephone saying (Parts & Labor):
$825.00 Plus Tax and Shop Fees.
This Shop has a Radio Call-In Program at one of the Radio Stations in Metro Orlando, Florida Area and they seem to be very good.
Yes, the person on the telephone told me it is wise to completely replace the Intake Manifold for Brand New!
He went on to say something about the bushings at the Runner Rod where Flipper Doors are attached get worn-out!
Again, I have never heard of an Engine Intake Manifold to be considered as a "WEAR ITEM" like brakes!
Unbelievable!
Called an independent Auto Repair Shop in Orlando, Florida and they gave me an estimate over the telephone saying (Parts & Labor):
$825.00 Plus Tax and Shop Fees.
This Shop has a Radio Call-In Program at one of the Radio Stations in Metro Orlando, Florida Area and they seem to be very good.
Yes, the person on the telephone told me it is wise to completely replace the Intake Manifold for Brand New!
He went on to say something about the bushings at the Runner Rod where Flipper Doors are attached get worn-out!
Again, I have never heard of an Engine Intake Manifold to be considered as a "WEAR ITEM" like brakes!
Unbelievable!
#6
02-26-2019, 02:56 PM
UPDATE:
After a few telephone calls from at least four (4) Dodge Dealerships I have accurately verified that my 2008 Dodge Avenger SE needs this Intake Manifold with Part Number: 04884882AE
I was amazed that there seem to be a wide BRUSH of Prices depending on which Dodge Dealer you call and I am calling within the CENTRAL FLORIDA area.
The last Dodge Dealer which they are located in Melbourne, Florida quoted me a low Price of $445.00 Plus Local Tax for the Complete Intake Manifold with Part Number: 04884882AE
This price was down from the originally quoted price of $460.00 plus tax.
I am just AMAZED at the Orlando, Florida Dealer asking $634.80 Plus Local Tax!
I am finding that this situation of Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Open (P2004) happens when the vehicle gets around close to 80,000 - 90,000.
To me, it's a VERY POOR design and it's designed for taking more $$$ out of the customer in a APE RAPE manner.
I am presently leaning towards ordering the NEW PART From the New Jersey DODGE Dealer for $ 299.46 plus shipping.
Last edited by guapoman2000; 02-26-2019 at 02:59 PM.
#7
02-27-2019, 10:27 AM
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#8
02-27-2019, 12:41 PM
Oh, I almost forgot!
When working around the Engine Compartment on these Dodge Cars, NEVER EVER let go of any wrench along the inside fender mating wall..!!!
Wrench slid down the Driver's Side Fender and got stuck on top of the Wheel Well Splash Cover. Hitting it with hand, it came down below and behind the Battery!!!
I was NOT going to allow anyone Drive the Avenger with a Metal 15mm wrench next to the battery!!!
I was able to unscrew a telescoping antenna from my RC Transmitter (My other hobby) and pushed the wrench down and FINALLY Landed on the Front Bottom Fender cover and I just reached in and took it out!
Unbelievable!
When working around the Engine Compartment on these Dodge Cars, NEVER EVER let go of any wrench along the inside fender mating wall..!!!
Wrench slid down the Driver's Side Fender and got stuck on top of the Wheel Well Splash Cover. Hitting it with hand, it came down below and behind the Battery!!!
I was NOT going to allow anyone Drive the Avenger with a Metal 15mm wrench next to the battery!!!
I was able to unscrew a telescoping antenna from my RC Transmitter (My other hobby) and pushed the wrench down and FINALLY Landed on the Front Bottom Fender cover and I just reached in and took it out!
Unbelievable!
#9
02-27-2019, 02:22 PM
Well,
I called Dodge Customer Care Number and talked to a very nice young lady who place me on hold twice.
The telephone call was about 17 minutes in total and she tried her best but, because my 2008 Dodge Avenger's warranty had expired in 2011 and even though low miles on the Avenger there was just nothing she or the management at Dodge Customer Care could do.
I even asked to see if they could at least go half way on the Part Bill of $ 349.09 and NOPE, nothing!
#10
02-28-2019, 08:11 AM