1999 Dakota Sport, wasn't getting fuel to the fuel rail, I felt the pump was bad, ordered fuel pump assembly which when it arrived and it looked just like the one I was replacing, I felt this was better than sliced bread. since I was already having starting problems, I went to Pick a Part salvage yard to see how other '99 Dakota 5.2 L pumps were connected to ensure I got the lines connected correctly, to my disbelief there were only two lines on this '99 Dakota. When i arrived at home i looked at the service manual and saw what seems to be a mixture of Dakota and Durango. The pump I purchased was listed for multiple years of Dakota, Durango and Rams, it has the feed from the fuel filter/pressure regulater as well as an Evap fitting, the manual shows a no evap line on the pump for the Dakota, the tank has an Evap fitting included in the rollover valve. the Durango has the evap line included in the pump, which i guess it doesnt have one or a rollover valve on the tank
my question: can i place a tee in line for both of the evap fittings? only one was connected when i got ahold of the truck, not running, from what i read is the pump only runs for two seconds when the key is first turned on, to prime the pump, then the crank sensor and cam sensor tell the pcm to allow the fuel pump to continue. So when i checked the pump originally, i turned the key on and was looking for fuel to be pumping out to the rail, My Bad, (we all learn from our mistakes)
Now i may still have the starting problem once i put the tank back up when i know what to do with the evap lines. the concern for the evap lines, from my reading the pcm checks the evap system for leaks which will trigger a diagnostic trouble code.
forgive the lengthy thread, I had previously hijacked into another thread which lost visibility, hopefully this isn't too convuluted, thanks for any assitance ahead of your input, really need to get this truck running and this system is all new to me, yet it seems to work well with all i,ve read

 

I suspect the extra fitting on the pump module would just be capped off.

 

i'm wanting to check the input voltage at the fuel pump, i read on one of the posts that iot should be near 12 vbolts, is that correct? if not then i will need to chase the wire to see where the loss of current is, hopefully that is still correct.
i have a question as to the anti-theft system, since the battery keeps getting disconnected while performing other actions, does the anti-theft system requires the disarming everytime? and since there is no key fob, does the manual locking and unlocking satisfy that requirement? not sure if i even have the correct door key, since the ignition was changed out. is there a way to tottally disable the anti-theft system to keep that out of the non start equation?

 

a 99 should not have factory anti-theft, you should have a black skinny key. 00+ anti-theft keys are thick and gray or green.

At key-on signal, you should have battery voltage, up to minus half a volt, at the fuel pump. I'm not sure what amp that circuit is set up for, I would imagine probably 10 or 15 because it's rather small wire.