My front right howls bad. But when i trun left it stops. i checked the bearing and it seems good(not Loose) i dont know if it would be a u joint or if im just out of align. Can someone give me advise. I just changed the upper ball joints becausei had one bad. and it still does it. the lowers seem tight but i may replace them too... do i need special tools to do the lower and how long will it take.. Thank you for all of your help in advance....(this is the first 4x4 ive had so anything you tell me will help)

 

its the bearing 100% on that do both sides while ur at it, then have it alligned change ur tie rod ends ect.too...

 

sorry about that i was quite rude, no its not a bad job, only special tools would be a long breaker bar for the axle nut and a ball joint installer kit, name escapes me you can do allof this with common mechanics tool set.l..

 

I think I just noticed I'm having the same issue, but mine is a 2003 2WD. I noticed a similar noise as Firey Dakota, when I turn right it goes away. I took the wheels off last to check the brakes, I couldn't get the rotors off because I think they are the original ones and I am about to surpasss 100K. Any help getting astuck rotor would be nice, too. When I turned the rotor I could tell that the noise was coming from the bearing area. I've never done anything with bearings so if you have any info that would be great. I don't know if I should just leave this promblem to the Pros.

 

yes, that does sound like a wheel bearing. and wheel bearings are really easy to replace, I did both sides in less then 1/2 hour. there just not cheap though[:@]

 

really easy, havnt done that dak tho, if i get a chance ill look into mine to get ya a how too... if its like most there are three bolts and the axle nut, its proaly idk 23mm or somthing huge and random, take that off first... then the bolts take out the old redo ur seals, now is a good time to rebuild the half shafts... re- install

 

To get the stuck rotor off you can start by tapping all around the perimeter of it with a 2lb or better mallet short handle, like a blacksmiths hammer not a ballpeen or regular claw hammer. Then start hitting the face lightly( caliper removed and farout of the way) all the way around. If that does not loosen it then what I did was had to smash the face of the rotor I mean really hit the rotor on the face into the vehicle. You can't get enough of a swing from inside the wheel well but after a few good whacks and a couple good sized dings in the old rotors they should pop right off. Don't stop hitting till they pop. By face of the rotor I mean the area the the brake pads normally contactthat is facing you. Seems counter intuitive to be driving the rotors more on but it worked for me. Do not worry about denting the old ones as they are no good. Safety googles/glasses and possibly some hearing protection recommended. Oh and dont breathe the dust(Asbestos).

 

just a heads up, any brake parts sold in the united states must be asbestos free... 9/10 the dust is just metallica shaving, still dont breathe it in, but dont get parenoid over it, pb blaster also helps to if you plan on resuing the rotors, just be sure you have brake clean handy, dead blow hammers work the best... and the rotor may have a little retaining clip on the lug nut stud to keep it on there, you can rip it off, they're useless, have fun

 

oh instead of beating the he!! outa ur bearing, throw the tire back on kick it a couple times way easier...

 

I would agree with the rest.. I just had to replace the pass. wheel bearing on my '00 QC because it was humming (sounds like the humming you get froman agressive mud tire) and when I turned right it would go away... the bearing isn't hard at all to replace.. as others said, take the wheel off, take off the axle nut, then it's just three bolts on the back of the steering knuckle.. just make sure you have plenty of PB Blaster or some other good penetrating oil.... actually what I did was started spraying pb on the bolts about 3 days before I did the work to get the rust freed up better.