99 Dakota Rear Brake Install
Did mine last fall, make sure you have a drum brake tool. Makes the job 10x easier. Also, take both wheels off and leave one assembly intact so you can see how it all goes back together. Adjust in the adjusters and use a rubber mallet to break loose the drum, both of mine released fairly easily. I had quite a time getting the cable back on properly so it wouldn't pop everything off as I strung it back around and hooked it on (having the other wheel/drum off really helped here). Get the kit of replacement parts, maybe $10 at your local O'Reilly or Autozone, no need to do the job twice! Otherwise it is pretty straightforward. Good luck!
My only advice, replace EVERYTHING. All the hardware, the cylinders, the self-adjuster, everything and with quality parts.
You got 15 years out of the original. Don't want to have to do it again.
You got 15 years out of the original. Don't want to have to do it again.
I didn't end up replacing my adjuster wheel and now my brakes have been dragging for god knows how many months since the adjuster wheel is seized solid.
Yes replace everything
Check your backing plate it may be very worn down and have a groove in it if so file them flat before you start.
I don't know if you have the 9'' or the 10'' or I think their may be a 11'' but I have a few Pic's of my 9'' Here
The groove is were the shoes meet the backing plate if you have them they are very easy to see.
Check your backing plate it may be very worn down and have a groove in it if so file them flat before you start.
I don't know if you have the 9'' or the 10'' or I think their may be a 11'' but I have a few Pic's of my 9'' Here
The groove is were the shoes meet the backing plate if you have them they are very easy to see.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Mar 15, 2014 at 07:57 AM.
I blame the forum time-travelling.
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Lol.
But brings up a question.
Rear brake job is simple.
If your brake cylinders are not leaking and have been working fine why spend money uselessly on new ones?
I suppose if money is no object then have at it.
Adjusters are a simple unscrew, clean, reassemble with antiseize.
Once again, why buy new?
Springs and cables in good shape after inspection.
You guys still buy new?
Yes. That's the kind of work a shop will do and charge you accordingly.
Gets awful expensive for some people to fix they're stuff.
If its not broken. Replace it. Its only money.
But brings up a question.
Rear brake job is simple.
If your brake cylinders are not leaking and have been working fine why spend money uselessly on new ones?
I suppose if money is no object then have at it.
Adjusters are a simple unscrew, clean, reassemble with antiseize.
Once again, why buy new?
Springs and cables in good shape after inspection.
You guys still buy new?
Yes. That's the kind of work a shop will do and charge you accordingly.
Gets awful expensive for some people to fix they're stuff.
If its not broken. Replace it. Its only money.
I don't consider it "uselessly spending money" when it comes to maintenance items. Your wheel cylinder may not be leaking now but if it has a number of years on it why chance it. They're cheap. I'd hate to do a brake job and have to redo it a few days later because the cylinder leaked and soaked the new shoes.
On the hardware, it really depends WHERE you live as to condition. Those of us that live in the rust belt find it easier to replace than to spend hours cleaning up rusted brake hardware.
Cables stretch and I've had them break. You can't always tell condition by appearance.
If the original lasted 10-15 years it doesn't owe you anything.
Isn't your time worth something?
On the hardware, it really depends WHERE you live as to condition. Those of us that live in the rust belt find it easier to replace than to spend hours cleaning up rusted brake hardware.
Cables stretch and I've had them break. You can't always tell condition by appearance.
If the original lasted 10-15 years it doesn't owe you anything.
Isn't your time worth something?







