cummins swap
#71
#72
For boost, you either tap the manifold or you get a boost bolt to replace one of the bolds on the manifold cover. Either way is easy, but the boost bolt is just bolt out / bolt in. Tapping the manifold require drilling and tapping.
For the EGT's. You simple drill and tap the exhaust manifold. Pre-turbo is preferred for performance readings, post turbo is preferred for cool down purposes. That's easy as well; it's nothing but drilling and tapping some cast iron.
For the tranny temp, you have 3 options. You can use the test port on the transmission (least preferred), you can drill and tap the tranny pan (better, but still not the best option) or you can get an adapter for the tranny line running to the cooler (best option). The line to the cooler gives you the temp as the fluid comes out of the trans and tells you what's really going on.
Fuel pressure. The best thing to do here is get a brass "T" adapter for your fuel line that has a 1/8 NPT port on one side. Then you can either use and electric gauge with a pressure sender or a mechanical guage with a fuel isolator.
Nothing with the gauges requires the OEM computer to be used. The only guage I have that reads from the ECM is my rail pressure and even that only uses the OEM sensor and doesn't use the computer at all.
If you need pictures of how or where to drill, tap, or mount any of them, let me know, I have tons.
#73
1 - They are the factory numbers for industrial applications, which are always WAY underrated. They are tuned for 100% longevity and low maintenance, not all out performance. The typical industrial diesel is only rated at 30% of it true potential.
2 - The torque curve on diesels make them feel like a whole different animal than a gas engine. The torque is right off idle and doesn't require 6 - 7K RPM's to peak.
3 - The stock components on the engines can handle mods REALLY easily. Dollar for dollar, you'll can squeeze a ton more power out of that little 4 cylinder diesel than you could a comparably sized gas engine.
There's an advantage to each, it's just depends on the application you want to use it in.
#74
The gauges don't require the computer at all.
For boost, you either tap the manifold or you get a boost bolt to replace one of the bolds on the manifold cover. Either way is easy, but the boost bolt is just bolt out / bolt in. Tapping the manifold require drilling and tapping.
For the EGT's. You simple drill and tap the exhaust manifold. Pre-turbo is preferred for performance readings, post turbo is preferred for cool down purposes. That's easy as well; it's nothing but drilling and tapping some cast iron.
For the tranny temp, you have 3 options. You can use the test port on the transmission (least preferred), you can drill and tap the tranny pan (better, but still not the best option) or you can get an adapter for the tranny line running to the cooler (best option). The line to the cooler gives you the temp as the fluid comes out of the trans and tells you what's really going on.
Fuel pressure. The best thing to do here is get a brass "T" adapter for your fuel line that has a 1/8 NPT port on one side. Then you can either use and electric gauge with a pressure sender or a mechanical guage with a fuel isolator.
Nothing with the gauges requires the OEM computer to be used. The only guage I have that reads from the ECM is my rail pressure and even that only uses the OEM sensor and doesn't use the computer at all.
If you need pictures of how or where to drill, tap, or mount any of them, let me know, I have tons.
For boost, you either tap the manifold or you get a boost bolt to replace one of the bolds on the manifold cover. Either way is easy, but the boost bolt is just bolt out / bolt in. Tapping the manifold require drilling and tapping.
For the EGT's. You simple drill and tap the exhaust manifold. Pre-turbo is preferred for performance readings, post turbo is preferred for cool down purposes. That's easy as well; it's nothing but drilling and tapping some cast iron.
For the tranny temp, you have 3 options. You can use the test port on the transmission (least preferred), you can drill and tap the tranny pan (better, but still not the best option) or you can get an adapter for the tranny line running to the cooler (best option). The line to the cooler gives you the temp as the fluid comes out of the trans and tells you what's really going on.
Fuel pressure. The best thing to do here is get a brass "T" adapter for your fuel line that has a 1/8 NPT port on one side. Then you can either use and electric gauge with a pressure sender or a mechanical guage with a fuel isolator.
Nothing with the gauges requires the OEM computer to be used. The only guage I have that reads from the ECM is my rail pressure and even that only uses the OEM sensor and doesn't use the computer at all.
If you need pictures of how or where to drill, tap, or mount any of them, let me know, I have tons.
The gauges i was referring to were your speedometer and tach and fuel gauges and stuff.
sorry
Rob
#75
What you need is the pin-out diagram for your truck's ECM.
It'll tell ya where every wire goes to and whether it's power, ground or signal.
Obviously, some of those wires won't be getting used and will need to be shorted via resistors so they don't throw codes and send the ECM into a fit. Normally, a bunch of 10ohm and 33 ohm resistors is what you'll need to short connections that aren't used anymore.
What tranny are you running? I'm assuming a 46 or 47RH. Is your speed sensor on the rear axle or the tranny tail housing?
A great place to start is with these guys.
http://www.destroked.com/
Go into the parts section. They have tach kits that should take care of that problem. That should be the major hurdle as there is no electronic signal for it from the 12V.
Everything else should be doable with the pin-out diagram.
#76
#77
That's the other thing with a diesel. You don't have to stick to that 14.7:1 ratio; you can't lean burn it.
A diesel at an idle can be up near 128:1, just sipping fuel.
On the highway, you might be near 40:1.
Now, bury the throttle and you can certainly blow through some fuel.
That's why diesels get such good fuel mileage compared to a gas engine in the same application.
Take my truck for example.....
700+ HP / 1300 lb/ft of torque and I get 16-18 MPG day to day and around 20 on the highway. My average tank of fuel (30 - 32 gals at fuel light) gets me 520 miles in day to day driving. On the highway I can push almost 600. Before I did all the big mods, 620 miles on a tank of fuel was no big deal.
#78
Take my truck for example.....
700+ HP / 1300 lb/ft of torque and I get 16-18 MPG day to day and around 20 on the highway. My average tank of fuel (30 - 32 gals at fuel light) gets me 520 miles in day to day driving. On the highway I can push almost 600. Before I did all the big mods, 620 miles on a tank of fuel was no big deal.