Amsoil Engine Flush
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Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Willow Street, PA
Amsoil Engine Flush
Well not to ruffle anymore feathers on the oil argument we have going on over in the oil thread but i was just wondering if anyones tried this. I'm thinking of doing this, as it would only cost an extra oil filter and 6 bucks for the flush stuff. Heres a link if you've never heard of it before. If i do decide to try it ill let you guys know.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx
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RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
moe in wichita ks
the most important thing about oil is to have lots of zinc in the oil. i have done some searching on the internet on oil, filters, additives. i like to have oil as thick as i can and it still start in cold. so here is what i use, 2001 dak v6. Valvoline premium blue 15w-40 oil it has lots of zinc in it. Purolator PL 14670 PURE ONE filter, short ver same length as a fram ph43, use only a PURE ONE filter that is shown by the P in the part no, the long version is PL 30001 the long ver is the same length as a fram ph8a, may not fit all frames. under NO conditions use a fram filter. then you need to go to zddplus.com site and get some zinc from them. my truck starts ok in the winter, but we normally dont get below 0 f.
i did have trouble with 20-50 not wanting to turn over in the winter.
the most important thing about oil is to have lots of zinc in the oil. i have done some searching on the internet on oil, filters, additives. i like to have oil as thick as i can and it still start in cold. so here is what i use, 2001 dak v6. Valvoline premium blue 15w-40 oil it has lots of zinc in it. Purolator PL 14670 PURE ONE filter, short ver same length as a fram ph43, use only a PURE ONE filter that is shown by the P in the part no, the long version is PL 30001 the long ver is the same length as a fram ph8a, may not fit all frames. under NO conditions use a fram filter. then you need to go to zddplus.com site and get some zinc from them. my truck starts ok in the winter, but we normally dont get below 0 f.
i did have trouble with 20-50 not wanting to turn over in the winter.
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Record Breaker
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From: Willow Street, PA
RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
personally i use mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage and a mobil 1 filter, i've read to many horror stories to ever use fram. and i've read that the 4.7's dont like thicker oil so i stick with the suggested 5w-30 in the winter and then run 10w-30 in the summer. anyways i've got all that stuff figured out i just was wondering if anyone had any experience with the amsoil engine flush stuff cuz i wanna try and flush out any sludge that is built up im just semi worried that it may clean up sludge then clog something. thats the main reason im askin
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RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
There's nothing harder on an engine's lubrication system than thick oil. You're doing the right thing by using 5W-30 in the winter. Why are you switching to 10W-30 in the summer? To be brief:
An engine is designed for a certain oil viscosity. In our case, 30 weight when warm. That's in the neighborhood of 10 cSt (centistrokes). The Mobil 1 5W-30 product is 11.3 cSt, at 100*C (212*F). This can be found on every motor oil's PDS (Product Data Sheet). Look at the viscosity of even a synthetic 5W-30 oil when "cold". Mobil 1 5W-30 is 64.8 cSt at 40*C (or about 100*F). Yes, folks, that's the same scale (cSt). Even a synthetic 5W-30 oil is MUCH MUCH thicker down at just 100*F than it is at normal operating temperature, or about 212*F.
What would be ideal is a fluid that's about 10-11 cSt when super cold, and 10-11 cSt when super hot. The current state of oil chemistry hasn't gotten us there yet, but we're closer than we have been. There are some really super 0W-30 oils and 0W-40 oils out there that totally out-flow older 10W-30 oils for example. Putting super thick oil into your engine is murder to the lubrication system. Moe, if you want to run a 40W oil, at least use a 5W- or 0W-40. There's a reason Dodge doesn't specify a 15W-40 for these engines, and it does so only for the diesels. Their bearing clearances are designed for it. These engines' clearances aren't.
If you want to add a shot of ZDDP, fine...but your engine would in all honesty be much better off by you spiking a 5W-30 oil (or even a 10W-30 oil) with ZDDP than a 15W-40. If you really want to run an HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil), Shell's Rotella is available in 10W-30, and is available from Wal-Mart (at least from mine). It's also available, by the way, in a 5W-40 weight, as a synthetic. Your engine will really thank you for it (as will your battery, by the way).
An engine is designed for a certain oil viscosity. In our case, 30 weight when warm. That's in the neighborhood of 10 cSt (centistrokes). The Mobil 1 5W-30 product is 11.3 cSt, at 100*C (212*F). This can be found on every motor oil's PDS (Product Data Sheet). Look at the viscosity of even a synthetic 5W-30 oil when "cold". Mobil 1 5W-30 is 64.8 cSt at 40*C (or about 100*F). Yes, folks, that's the same scale (cSt). Even a synthetic 5W-30 oil is MUCH MUCH thicker down at just 100*F than it is at normal operating temperature, or about 212*F.
What would be ideal is a fluid that's about 10-11 cSt when super cold, and 10-11 cSt when super hot. The current state of oil chemistry hasn't gotten us there yet, but we're closer than we have been. There are some really super 0W-30 oils and 0W-40 oils out there that totally out-flow older 10W-30 oils for example. Putting super thick oil into your engine is murder to the lubrication system. Moe, if you want to run a 40W oil, at least use a 5W- or 0W-40. There's a reason Dodge doesn't specify a 15W-40 for these engines, and it does so only for the diesels. Their bearing clearances are designed for it. These engines' clearances aren't.
If you want to add a shot of ZDDP, fine...but your engine would in all honesty be much better off by you spiking a 5W-30 oil (or even a 10W-30 oil) with ZDDP than a 15W-40. If you really want to run an HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil), Shell's Rotella is available in 10W-30, and is available from Wal-Mart (at least from mine). It's also available, by the way, in a 5W-40 weight, as a synthetic. Your engine will really thank you for it (as will your battery, by the way).
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Record Breaker
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From: Willow Street, PA
RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
well actually i haven't decided what im doin yet or why i'd switch to 10w in the summer i just know i put 10w in it when i got it because i didnt know that it took 5w. depends on how hot it gets but ill probably just stick to the 5w
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RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
I'd be afraid of clogging the pick up in the pan. If after flushing, you could pull the pan and clean it out that would be different. I don't think I'd do it, but let us know how it turns out if you do.
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Record Breaker
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From: Willow Street, PA
RE: Amsoil Engine Flush
hmm the same reasons why i was leary in the first place the whole clogging thing is what scares me the most. maybe ill just run some seafoam in the oil for like 10 miles before i change it. hmm decisions decisions
