Replaced Diff, Now clutch is out...
As the old saying goes: "when it rains it pours".
I posted up a while back with a picture of my "Diff Shrapnel". Well, I had a shop install a tru-track. I was going to get an Auburn but the guy at the shop said that the Detroit was the better choice. So, $1100 later, I've got a new diff to replace the OEM junk...
...a few days later though, I started to get the tell-tale signs of my throw-out bearing screeching it's way to pieces. So, in addition to the new axle, I've got to get a new clutch...
First, Since I'm going to be replacing the clutch, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? (better aftermarket clutch perhaps)
Second, should I even think about doing this myself, or is that just stupid? I've replaced clutches before but it was always in a 2 wheel drive car. On this one, I'm going to have to pull the transfer case and the transmission. Anyone ever replace one on your own?
Any idea what it costs to have a shop do this?
I posted up a while back with a picture of my "Diff Shrapnel". Well, I had a shop install a tru-track. I was going to get an Auburn but the guy at the shop said that the Detroit was the better choice. So, $1100 later, I've got a new diff to replace the OEM junk...
...a few days later though, I started to get the tell-tale signs of my throw-out bearing screeching it's way to pieces. So, in addition to the new axle, I've got to get a new clutch...
First, Since I'm going to be replacing the clutch, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? (better aftermarket clutch perhaps)
Second, should I even think about doing this myself, or is that just stupid? I've replaced clutches before but it was always in a 2 wheel drive car. On this one, I'm going to have to pull the transfer case and the transmission. Anyone ever replace one on your own?
Any idea what it costs to have a shop do this?
ORIGINAL: fivehundo
As the old saying goes: "when it rains it pours".
I posted up a while back with a picture of my "Diff Shrapnel". Well, I had a shop install a tru-track. I was going to get an Auburn but the guy at the shop said that the Detroit was the better choice. So, $1100 later, I've got a new diff to replace the OEM junk...
...a few days later though, I started to get the tell-tale signs of my throw-out bearing screeching it's way to pieces. So, in addition to the new axle, I've got to get a new clutch...
First, Since I'm going to be replacing the clutch, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? (better aftermarket clutch perhaps)
Second, should I even think about doing this myself, or is that just stupid? I've replaced clutches before but it was always in a 2 wheel drive car. On this one, I'm going to have to pull the transfer case and the transmission. Anyone ever replace one on your own?
Any idea what it costs to have a shop do this?
As the old saying goes: "when it rains it pours".
I posted up a while back with a picture of my "Diff Shrapnel". Well, I had a shop install a tru-track. I was going to get an Auburn but the guy at the shop said that the Detroit was the better choice. So, $1100 later, I've got a new diff to replace the OEM junk...
...a few days later though, I started to get the tell-tale signs of my throw-out bearing screeching it's way to pieces. So, in addition to the new axle, I've got to get a new clutch...
First, Since I'm going to be replacing the clutch, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? (better aftermarket clutch perhaps)
Second, should I even think about doing this myself, or is that just stupid? I've replaced clutches before but it was always in a 2 wheel drive car. On this one, I'm going to have to pull the transfer case and the transmission. Anyone ever replace one on your own?
Any idea what it costs to have a shop do this?
You will have to either remove engine or tranny, tranny is easier if rebuilding , but if just clutch engine might be but I have heard of people separating the two and doing it without removal...
If you plan on keeping the truck, I'd go with a heavier aftermarketclutch than just going to the parts store and getting remanufactured stuff. If your going to be laying on the ground doing it. I'd take the transfer case off. Will be a lot easier. Mark all the shafts first. The transfer case is easy to take off. If you have a lift and transmission jack, you can pull both together. On standards with internal slave cylinders where it rides behind the bearing, it is recommended that you change it while you have the tranny out, if the vehicle has higher mileage. I believe the Dakota's have external slave cylinders. Check your pilot bearing. They're easy to change.I'd take it and get a couple estimates. You might find it isn't worh getting banged up doing it yourself.
ORIGINAL: varsis
Well while your in there replace with heavy duty tranny parts, standards are easy to rebuild at home!. Luckily. You want to be able to tear that thing to pieces and it hold up..
You will have to either remove engine or tranny, tranny is easier if rebuilding , but if just clutch engine might be but I have heard of people separating the two and doing it without removal...
Well while your in there replace with heavy duty tranny parts, standards are easy to rebuild at home!. Luckily. You want to be able to tear that thing to pieces and it hold up..
You will have to either remove engine or tranny, tranny is easier if rebuilding , but if just clutch engine might be but I have heard of people separating the two and doing it without removal...
Any reccomendations as to what brand?
We've bought them from this guy, "see link below"and the kits even include thepilot bearing and alignment tool.. I've had good luck with autozone kits also.
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dodge_dakota.htm
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dodge_dakota.htm
http://www.rockauto.com also has really good prices and a great selections. I have to replace my slave and master soon i think because as soon as it got hot out here it started squeaking again.[:@] Didn't do it all winter and the one day its in the mid to high 60's it does it after like 20 mins of driving. It sounds like its coming from behind/below the brake booster canister or whatever that big black canister is so im thinking its the master cylinder but you have to do both the slave and master since its a sealed system. Gonna change the tranny fluid first just for ****s and giggles to see if that does anything but i highly doubt it...sorry for my off thread rant i just had to get it out. lol
ORIGINAL: pitkanen44flyers
Gonna change the tranny fluid first just for ****s and giggles to see if that does anything but i highly doubt it..
Gonna change the tranny fluid first just for ****s and giggles to see if that does anything but i highly doubt it..
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without a lift its kinda a PITA but not a hard project realy, ive always used these... www.centerforce.com
ORIGINAL: fivehundo
Prepare yourself for the price of that special MOPAR transmission oil. It ain't cheap... [
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ORIGINAL: pitkanen44flyers
Gonna change the tranny fluid first just for ****s and giggles to see if that does anything but i highly doubt it..
Gonna change the tranny fluid first just for ****s and giggles to see if that does anything but i highly doubt it..
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