When it comes to a spun rod bearing, you can have the rod re-conditioned. The rod caps are ground down on the mating surfaces and then it is put together, torqued and honed to the correct size. Then the crank can be replaced with a reconditioned unit or a crank kit (comes with reground crank and bearings to fit). The original crank can be welded on the crank throws and ground to size, but that is costly, and usually done only to hard to find or antique vehicles. Cranks can also be chrome plated, and the question of wear goes away. But then again, it is costly to have it c hrome plated and ground to size.

 

I have a blue bird hoist that raised the motor out of my engine bay vertically because the chains slipped and I had over a foot left. I would take some quick measurements and yes, get the hoist if you can borrow one.

The tight fit around the transmission is a PITA. Getting to the top of the bellhousing wasn't too bad with a set of ratchetting box wrenches, getting to the bolts around the starter were worse, and the exhaust will need to be dropped to reach them. And make sure that once you get the starter off you look up in there and get the bolt hiding up there, it will make it hard to pull with it still on. I know, I tried. Those two cats block you being able to get in there. Worst part is you can see them and you are so close to getting them but can't get on straight.

Also, when you go to actually lift the motor out I would suggest saving yourself the pain I went through trying to undo the motor mounts from the frame. The drivers side motor mount through bolt can't be pulled out because it hits a tab on the steering column, so in my opinion, you are better off taking the passenger side off completely, and remove the braket from the block right off the bat on both the passenger and drivers side.

 

You might want to check with your machine shop about re-conditioning your rods in the 4.7.

My machinist told me that the rods are what are called "cracked"...meaning that are manufactured in a special way and cannot be reconditioned in the traditional way.

You might check with your local machine shop guy and see what he/she has to say.

 

Well i tracked down a lift today. The guy used it to pull a 351W out of a 95 bronco. He did say he only had a few inches but i dont think the dakota sits any higher then a bronco so it should not be a issue.

Thank you for the heads up on the motor mounts that is going to save me a little time trying to figure out how to get the damn thing off.

I hope to finish taging every thing and start pulling some the harness off after work on friday. Saterday i am spending the day with my wife but i hope to get her most of the way out maybe sunday.

 

If you need more room just remove the radiator.

 

Hope you have better luck than I am. I was hoping to get my engine back in today but after looking at a rod when I was putting it back together I saw a flaw and now I need to change out one connecting rod. I will have to take it into a machine shop this week.

 

Well i found a 2 motors local one 3 hours south and the other about one hour north. Both with 80-90K on them for 1100-1200 bucks. One motor is out of a 2000 and the other out of a 2002 durango. I need to get the truck on the road fast so i can stop driving the honda (big guy, small car ) I am thinking of just droping one of them in for now and in a few months doing a full rebuild on the busted motor and keep it on the side for when i need it.

 

Well i went up and looked at the 02 motor at a little shop just north of here. After talking with the owner i am going to let them put the motor in. They are charging me 1600 for labor and the cost of the motor and giving me a 6 month warranty since they are installing it. I was just going to pick up the motor and do the swap my self but for the extra 500 bucks i figured it was better to play it safe then sorry.