I have a few questions about my 2000 Dakota. I picked the truck up for 1000 bucks from a friend that had it sitting around. The truck has a bad knock but does still turn over. The truck is a 4x4 crew cab 4.7 truck. Other then the engine it seems to be in great shape for a 10 year old truck. My question is the engine worth trying to rebuild since it does still turn over or should i just track down a good used engine.

I did find a woman with a 4.7 she claims has only 80K on it out of a 2002. She lives about 1 1/2 north of me so before i head out there to look at it i want to make sure there are no diffrences from the 2000 to 2002 4.7.

Sorry for the noob questions but i am sure i will have more then a few more as this project moves forward.

 

In my experience, since I am doing this right now, I would say get the used engine if it is possible. A rebuild is definately doable on the engine but if you can find a used one cheaper you are better off, and then rebuild the old one when you have it out if you'd like, but a rebuild is somewhat costly as far as I can tell, even doing it yourself.

The tone rings should be the only major change, and depending on the vehicle it came from it happened in different years. 2000 and 2002 you have a good chance of having the 16 tooth tone ring in both. Only way to find out is to either know what computer is in each, if you have a 3 plug youre on a JTEC system and have 16 teeth, 4 plug and you're most likely looking at a 32 tooth tone ring. OR a sure way to tell is to remove the oil pan and count the teeth. I'll post pictures of each for you tonight, pretty easy to tell what you have by looking.



Above is the 32 tooth.



And here is the 16 tooth above.

Even so, if it were different, you could swap tone rings if you wanted to. The cam shaft tone rings are also different if the crankshaft tone rings are different. IF you do attempt the tone ring swap you are completely tearing down the lower half of the engine, the heads can stay on and obviously the pistons remain then too.

 

If it has a deep knock, then odds are it is a rod. For some reason, I have come across four 4.7 engines that have spun the #8 rod in my quest for parts.

Can you rebuild it?...absolutely. Is it cost effective?...that is your decision.

One of my projects is an engine that had broken a valve spring and the corporate garage told the guy that he needed a new engine. The previous owner spent $1700 on a complete engine (from TB to oil pan) at a junkyard for an engine that had 76K on it.

When it is all said and done, I will probably have another $550 over my cost to buy it from him in it (cleaning block, new rod/main bearings, new rings, complete gasket set, possibly lash adjusters, new valve springs, new oil pump, misc.). It only has 84k on it but while I have it torn down and on the engine stand, I am just going to go through it.

The second engine has a spun rod bearing on the #8 cylinder. A rebuilt crank, another rod/piston plus the above listed items will probably make it a $700 or so in parts to rebuild plus my original cost.

When you add the cost of the engines to start with, they will both have about a $1,000 in them with parts and inital cost. Luckily, neither engine needs any machine work that I have discovered yet...that would drive the price up.

Also, your parts costs depends one where you shop. That is something to think about if you want to rebuild it. I don't mind shopping around for parts. When I complete these engines, I am going to install the 4.7 HO in my '00 Dakota and sell the other to pay for the one that I want to keep. I am not in a rush and am planning on putting it in my truck when the original takes a dump on me. Currently, it has 238K on it.

It all depends on what you want to do. If you like working on engines and have the time and place, you will get an engine that is like new. If you don't have the mechanical ability, time or space, I would say find you a used one.

 

I have the time, skill, place, and tools to swap out the motor but when it comes to getting into the block thats where i hit my limit. I do have a good shop that built my Turbo TA that i like but i am not sure if they will touch a 4.7 engine. If i go into the bottom end i would like to make it last a bit. New bearings, balance, and maybe even clean up the cylinder walls a bit and droping new pistons and rings into here. I just figure i might as well spend the extra cash and get the old girl right.

I dont mind spending a little extra cash to get the motor right or get one with a little warranty. But at the same time i dont want to spend 4K on crate engine.

 

So let me make sure i am on the same page as every one. First off thanks for all the help so far on this project. Now if i understand right all of the following (dakota, ram, cherokee) from 99-01 4.7s where the same with the 16 tooth set up. The late 2002 has the 32 tooth set up and will not work with the 16 tooth ecu.

 

Changing the bearings and gaskets won't run you all that much. If you can pull the motor I think you would be more than fine tackling this job if you download the factory service manual. No need to balance, and if you start messing with the cylinder walls now you are talking top end stuff, not bottom end.

 

Your right on. I talked to jason at rpm and he said about 250 in labor to replace the bearings and turn the crank. Is this comon for the rod bearings to fail and cause the knock?

 

Started marking some of the lines and wires today and pulled off the intake and upper radiator hose. Also drained most of the fluids.

 

While you have that motor torn down, you may want to look at the guides and adjuster arms to make sure they aren't getting worn, also.

The book calls for more than .032" wear to be replaced. And since you are going to have to pull the timing cover, it might be worth looking at. You should be able to replace the whole bunch for around $125 or so from your local friendly parts store. Thats not the chain or sprockets or adjusters, just the plastic parts.

 

Every thing is going good so far. Finished marking on the wires and un hooked the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust.

I do have two concerns. The first is my engine lift is not ment for trucks so i dont think the oil or even the block is going to clear the front of the truck so it looks like i might be tracking one down from a friend.

And my second concern is the tight fit around the transmission. How hard is it to get to the top of the bell housing.