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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 01:06 AM
  #11  
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Keep in mind if you weld it to take your time and do small sections at a time. The last thing you want to do is get the metal too hot with the welder and warp it.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 01:18 AM
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n593705744_1302060_1511.jpg

Thats the best I have. I didn't think to take pictures of the paint booth. But basically i was a large garage a family friend owned and we hung plastic from the ceiling and laid down paper on the floor. Then we sealed it up with tape the walls were so high that over sprat wasn't an issue and the compressor was left out of the booth with in line filters to keep out moisture. I was a great setup and allowed us to paint the bumpers off the truck along with the tail gate but it was way larger than your average garage.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by zanethan


Thats the best I have. I didn't think to take pictures of the paint booth. But basically i was a large garage a family friend owned and we hung plastic from the ceiling and laid down paper on the floor. Then we sealed it up with tape the walls were so high that over sprat wasn't an issue and the compressor was left out of the booth with in line filters to keep out moisture. I was a great setup and allowed us to paint the bumpers off the truck along with the tail gate but it was way larger than your average garage.


Didnt you have a thread about how you went about painting your truck?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #14  
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Im planning on painting my truck in the spring...
How far should I sand down, is it the primer thats bad or the clearcoat that failed?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 98DakotaSLT
Im planning on painting my truck in the spring...
How far should I sand down, is it the primer thats bad or the clearcoat that failed?
Pictures?

If the clearcoat is coming off but the paint is good, just sand the clearcoat off. If the paint is actually chipping, sand it to the metal. When I painted my truck, I chemical stripped it down to bare metal with Aircraft Paint Stripper... a whole lot less effort involved than sanding.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dodgeramguy85
Didnt you have a thread about how you went about painting your truck?
Yeah its in the DIY section under 2nd gen last time I checked.

Edit. I guess the DIY section is gone but I did a write up last year try searching for "new paint" i think
 
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
Pictures?

If the clearcoat is coming off but the paint is good, just sand the clearcoat off. If the paint is actually chipping, sand it to the metal. When I painted my truck, I chemical stripped it down to bare metal with Aircraft Paint Stripper... a whole lot less effort involved than sanding.
I was reffering to the general paint issues chrysler had in the 90's but I realize that was pointless...haha.

However the paint on my truck is definitly cracking and I will need to take it down all the way, 318, do you have any pictures videos of when you stripped/painted your truck? How much did that aircraft paint stripper cost, I like that idea.

Btw, that 318 stripe across the back of the box looks awsome, I'd do it but I think it would look funny with my trim pieces, even if they were the same color.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #18  
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here the link to the diy paint:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...self-info.html
 
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #19  
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If you want a decent end product, you must have decent bodywork. If you want a good end product, you muct have good bodywork. Paint must be good, PPG's Omni line is alright for the price. Although you must spray more layers than PPG's main line of paints.

3M has good fillers. When welding in new panels, large or small, make sure you can clean the opposite side of the area being repaired so you can seal it. Don't lay any beads, only spot welds.

What colors or color will you be using?
Do you have plastic sheeting like another poster involved in this thread?
What kind of paint are you thinking?
What brand of paint?

if you decide to paint a stripe anywhere on the vehicle, make sure you have not sprayed it too thick because you will need to spray extra clearcoat to make the surface level again. By level I mean the "stripe" is not above the level of the clearcoat that you can feel the stripe protrude when you run your fingers across it.

.....aircraft paint stripper...
Do not buy the oderless paint stripper, it does not do as good of a job as the regular. It just stinks. Do not get this paint stripper on your skin in your pours either! IT STINGS!!! Keep a jug of water by just incase to wash off with. After you use this goop, wash the panel off and/or use the sander lighly to clean away the aircraft stripper that is dried on.

If you do sand to the color make sure you don't have what we call "sand-ins". Sand everything as even as possible, these sand-ins will show up if not removed.

Start with worrying about the bodywork and not worry about paint until later. Where are you at as of now?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #20  
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I havent yet started the project, I'm going to wait until it warms up abit. Most likley will be a long weekend where I can drop my transmission and do my clutch/throwout bearing. Of course prep work would be started before that.

Thanks for the advice though, I had no clue about what paint brand to go with...

I will be staying with the stock deep amethyst purple and silver trim. I will not be redoing the stock pinstripping however.

I will need to buy those supplies though, hopefully I could get use of a friends paint both. That would be a huge help.

Any brand of stripper that you recomend?
 
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