home paint job
We used sherwin williams on our jeep and I know its not the best paint but for the price you couldnt beat it. For under 300 it turned out great. Personaly Im not a fan of the amethest in low light its ok but when that bright light hits it and turns it the purpleish color I dont care for it. If I ever do my truck its going to be dark green with the sliver bottom. If you can paint yours in a booth do it that is so much nicer than making your own booth in a garage. I talked to the body shop at votech and he said let him know in a week advanced and If no one else is using it I can use it to paint what ever.
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Last edited by dodgeramguy85; Jan 27, 2010 at 10:40 PM.
I was reffering to the general paint issues chrysler had in the 90's but I realize that was pointless...haha.
However the paint on my truck is definitly cracking and I will need to take it down all the way, 318, do you have any pictures videos of when you stripped/painted your truck? How much did that aircraft paint stripper cost, I like that idea.
Btw, that 318 stripe across the back of the box looks awsome, I'd do it but I think it would look funny with my trim pieces, even if they were the same color.
However the paint on my truck is definitly cracking and I will need to take it down all the way, 318, do you have any pictures videos of when you stripped/painted your truck? How much did that aircraft paint stripper cost, I like that idea.
Btw, that 318 stripe across the back of the box looks awsome, I'd do it but I think it would look funny with my trim pieces, even if they were the same color.
This is the stuff I used... I just did a quick google search, you can get it at a lot of different places.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/klsar343.html
It also comes in an aerosol can that makes it much easier to apply on the sides of the truck! And like mentioned above, don't get it on your skin!! Wear at least 2 pair of latex gloves because it will start eating at the gloves after a few minutes. And keep water in reach. And when you're done, clean the truck off very thoroughly with water!! You don't want that stuff under the new paint :P
I havent yet started the project, I'm going to wait until it warms up abit. Most likley will be a long weekend where I can drop my transmission and do my clutch/throwout bearing. Of course prep work would be started before that.
Thanks for the advice though, I had no clue about what paint brand to go with...
I will be staying with the stock deep amethyst purple and silver trim. I will not be redoing the stock pinstripping however.
I will need to buy those supplies though, hopefully I could get use of a friends paint both. That would be a huge help.
Any brand of stripper that you recomend?
Thanks for the advice though, I had no clue about what paint brand to go with...
I will be staying with the stock deep amethyst purple and silver trim. I will not be redoing the stock pinstripping however.
I will need to buy those supplies though, hopefully I could get use of a friends paint both. That would be a huge help.
Any brand of stripper that you recomend?
As for brand, find out what auto body supply shops are in your area and what they offer. I personally like Du Pont, but thats just because I'm used to them... its what I've always used.
As for a list of supplies, you'll need:
> Lots of masking tape - green 3M painters tape is the best for auto body work, get 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch widths
> Masking paper - preferrably a light wax paper that won't soak through when wet
> DART - this is a foam used for masking door jambs and other gaps
> Paint stripper
> Sandpaper - 80 grit, 180 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit wet, 1000 grit wet, 1500 grit wet
> 36 grit grinding discs for prepping any metal for body filler
> Body filler
> Body filler finishing glaze
> Filler primer
> Sanding blocks
> Water spray bottle
> Lint-free paper towels
> Paint - sealer, color, clear is what I'd recommend, I've never liked single stage
I'm sure I'm forgetting something, so anyone else with painting experience feel free to chime in.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Jan 27, 2010 at 11:15 PM.
Haha no id do the paint itself over the weekend, all prep would be done before that. I'd drop the tranny after prep before paint. I have a garage i can use for that. That way while the paint is curing I could do the work needed on the tranny. Plus id have an extra hand to help me out.
Now that would be really cool, have everything needed to be done on my truck done all at once.
Btw i know i think that deep amethyst dosnt look the greatest in the sun so I was playing with the idea of making it abit darker and/or adding a slight flake to it. Thats just an idea... I am going to stick with it because it was stock. I would go black but that is ridiculously hard to get right.
Who knows...mabey I will change the color yet. I guess nothings final until it's on the truck.
Now that would be really cool, have everything needed to be done on my truck done all at once.
Btw i know i think that deep amethyst dosnt look the greatest in the sun so I was playing with the idea of making it abit darker and/or adding a slight flake to it. Thats just an idea... I am going to stick with it because it was stock. I would go black but that is ridiculously hard to get right.
Who knows...mabey I will change the color yet. I guess nothings final until it's on the truck.
Last edited by 98DakotaSLT; Jan 28, 2010 at 12:10 AM.
The regular Aircraft remover is the best you will get IMO next to media lasting. Just don't get the oderless version because the process takes longer.
When you decide to choose a color, there are thousands of paint colors out there. Pearls, metallics, metal flake, solid color etc. are all possibilities you can get. There are several variations of any particular color the factory decides to make also. If you want some sparkle in the paint, get a pearl or metallic. Flakes are much larger than the metallics and need a larger tip on the paint gun along with having experience on spraying this type of paint also.
I will recommend using Omni's 2k Urethane surfacer primer. I think its great stuff. Spray and sand, repeat this until all your surfaces are smooth and level.
I also recommend NOT doing the transmission in between the paint job process. You get oil or grease on the body in this time, if you don't clean the surface well enough your paint will 'orange peel' as soon as you lay the layer down in that area. Do the transmission work BEFORE you start sanding, that way you do not have to worry about oil/grease contamination.
When you decide to choose a color, there are thousands of paint colors out there. Pearls, metallics, metal flake, solid color etc. are all possibilities you can get. There are several variations of any particular color the factory decides to make also. If you want some sparkle in the paint, get a pearl or metallic. Flakes are much larger than the metallics and need a larger tip on the paint gun along with having experience on spraying this type of paint also.
I will recommend using Omni's 2k Urethane surfacer primer. I think its great stuff. Spray and sand, repeat this until all your surfaces are smooth and level.
I also recommend NOT doing the transmission in between the paint job process. You get oil or grease on the body in this time, if you don't clean the surface well enough your paint will 'orange peel' as soon as you lay the layer down in that area. Do the transmission work BEFORE you start sanding, that way you do not have to worry about oil/grease contamination.



