I didnt even have to remove it. Somehow I got a socket extension in there and made it happen.

 

Sweet, good job. Truck feel like it runs any better?

 

Absolutely feels better. My truck only has 22,000 miles on it, but it's 6 years old and still had the stock NGK plugs in there. I switched them out for the Autolite 3923's that I heard I should use...and it seems to idle smoother and run a little better too. I actually think I may have increased my mpg, because since I added a cold air intake, Dynomax muffler, and new plugs it picked up a little power and my foot has become a LOT heavier but my mpg's have remained at about 18.5 consistently. I bet if I drove it like a normal human being I would get close to 20 mpg. That's not bad for a QC 4500 lb truck if ya ask me!

 

I just did mine a week ago and it was E-A-S-Y. Here are the super directions that I got off of the dodgedakotas.com website.

You need to remove the air cleaner box where it is attached to the throttle body. There are two pipes that run across the top of the engine. They are water pipes for the heater. They are held in place with a plastic mount that just clips in place. If you look carefully you can see that it unclips on one side. Open up the clip and you will be able to move the hoses/pipe over so you can access the spark plug under the hose/pipe. The coils have one 10 mm nut that holds them in place. Remove the plug connection to the coil (press down on the clip and pull off) and then the nut, twist and pull up on the coil and remove it. Use an air hose to blow out the hole where the spark plug is. Remove the spark plug. Gap the new plug at 0.040. You need to use some antisieze on the threads and some dielectric silicone grease inside the spark plug boot on the black rubber o-ring. Check to make sure the o-ring on the coil is not damaged. Torque the plugs to 20 ft pounds. If you don't have a torque wrench, hand tighten the new plug until it bottoms out, then tighten 1/4 turn with your socket. Do not over tighten the plugs as it will make them very hard to remove the next time and can also damage the threads. Reinstall the coil/spark plug boot and put the nut that holds the coil in place back on. Snug the nut down be careful not to over tighten and break the plastic on the coil. You are done with one plug now do the other 7. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE SAME TYPE PLUG THAT THE DAKOTA CAME WITH. DO NOT USE A PLATINUM PLUG. THE ORIGINAL PLUGS ARE COPPER CLAD TO DISSIPATE HEAT. YOU MAY GET SOME DETONATION IF YOU USE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A COPPER CLAD PLUG. I ALWAYS USE THE CHAMPION 439 PLUGS. THEY WORK VER WELL IN THE 4.7. Hope this helps.

 

So I guess upgrading to Iridium plugs is a bad idea? I just thought they might improve something idk lol. I'd like it if they didn't cuz copper plugs are CHEAP lol.

 

Lee -- sounded strange to me too. But I've read this in four different internet forums and have been told the same thing by two different mechanics. The copper plugs are so cheap and so easy to change, I just went with them. The whole job took less than an hour and costs about $15.

 

yeah i know. i don't know much of anything about engines so i figured, like alot of people, that the more expensive ones would be better. but i'm just gonna go with copper now.