hey, i'm new here and this is my first dodge. its a 98 dakota sport v6 4x4.
my issue is that i cannot remove 2 of my spark plugs because of rust build-up inside the surrounding collar (can't get the 5/8 to even grip the plug). any tricks to remove the rust? i've tried pb soaking and even shaved down a socket. are there any other rust removers that'll break it up? thanks

 

I can't believe pb blaster didn't do it... uhhh How do you feel about taking the cover off to get closer to the plug (if that's even possible)? I'm just guessing here. I'd like to see the answer to this one...

 

I would try soaking it in pb then letting the truck warm up then shut off respray it then repeat it 3 or 4 times and the last time do it while it is still hot but only thing that would scare me is depending how much rust is in there then when you do get it out how much might go into the cylinder.

 

I was fearful of the same thing when I did my tuneup. So I stuck a small vacuum attachment down in there and sucked all of that stuff out.

 

Don't do it when it's hot. Heat expands therefore making the plug larger. Try to get it as cold as possible, but dont break the plug off. The only other thing I'd suggest is to take a dremmel and take off some of the rust until you can get the socket over it.

 

I was thinking I heat a bolt to get it out easier so I thought hey it might work lol

 

There is a penetrant spray called Kroil, or I have seen it labeled Aero-Kroil, it is the best penetrant/rusted bolt-nut loosening spray I have ever used. If you can find it, buy a can and spray the plugs liberally with it and let the truck sit overnight.

If you can't find any Kroil, try the Liquid Wrench penetrant spray. Same method, spray it on the plugs with the engine cold, let it sit overnight, try breaking the plugs loose in the morning. You can also spray it several times during the night, really soak it well and let it sit until morning.

Jimmy

 

My first tune-up was similar to your problem. I used Channel-locks to pull off the metal cover, then used a long #0 flathead screwdriver to chip out whatever the hell that stuff was (looked like gray ceramic clay or concrete). I used a can of air (keyboard cleaner) to blow out the chips, then I could get a socket on it.... A word of advise to you, go to the auto parts store and get a "spark plug chaser" tool. About $10 and worth it. It cleans out the threads in the cylinder head. But you will have to remove the covers/ sleeves to use it.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

 

Might not work for your needs, but for rusted bolts, a 50/50 mixture of atf fluid and acetone is said to work. Copied this from a old car forum.


PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
-------------------------------------------------------

 

Pb blaster isn't it's all cracked up to be. It's kinda the known brand but as you can see from the table above, it isn't the greatest.

I've never tried ATF and acetone. I will definitly have to remember that next time I can't get some bolts loose. I DEFINITLY could have used that when I changed my shocks. Those bolts were on there....