Im getting my kit from mydepots.com thats where my headlight hids are from. User has the same kit in his r/t. Dont get 55 watt or they will melt your housings. also for my truck the fogs are 880 I think yours are different tho. I have the 6,000k which Is the whitest it comes. So far my lights have been awesome I got my high a low hids for 70 something and I got a 16 month warranty.

 

which ones wont melt the housings? 35 watts? The ones I installed yesterday are supposedly 55 watt, but they're self contained, non-HID.

 

No it hasnt melted my housings. The easiest way would be to try and seperate the two pieces. Otherwise Maybe a Q tip otherwise.

My kit is the 6500 K. 8000K is to blue.

Yes that is the kit for the Low beams. I mounted each ballast right above each headlight housing. There is a little metalk brace that looks like a box right above the headlight housing once it is out. I placed the ballast in there and zip tied it. my fogs are 881

 

35 watters are safe. I havent used the 55 watters either, I do know they create alot more heat. But I would assume as long as the Bulb itself is far enough away form the husing it wont melt anything. Plus the headlight housing themselves are meant to take heat to a certain point.

 

I'm talking fogs- not high/low beams. I just put the silverstars in those last year. I'm talking the HID kit for the fog lamps. Wyntis doesnt show an 898 kit, just an 881 kit. Their images claims to offer 898 though

 

898?? What type of housing do you have?

 

thats what sylvania calls for, is an 898.

edit- I just ran out and double checked, the bulbs indeed say 898 on them

 

I checked the bulb number, and the 898 is comparible to the 881's base style. The difference is the shape of the bulb. But the mounting flange is the same as the 881.

 

Hids are burn cooler then halogen bulbs, although due to the style of the HID bulb (being longer) makes it closer to the housings, in the headlights you are ok to use 55w ballasts, but DO NOT use 55w in the stock plastic FOGLIGHT housings as it will melt it. You must use the the 35w.

Here is a write up i did awhile back when I did my foglights, and the bypass from the factory switch.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...hid-setup.html

Here is a link to some photos after replacing the factory headlights with the crystals, and using 6000k HIDs all around, both links should have bulb info, and links to answer all questions...

post #21 has the photos...

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-new-r-t.html

 

Well, I wasn't planning to bypass the factory switch. Like i said, i'm only doing HID fogs, not headlights. (does this not cause the issues?) User, I don't see how you bypassed the stock...I can see the factory plugs still going into the ballasts?

If they make a pigtail for the stock plug, I could just use a relay....

edit- A-Ha. http://autolumination.com/connectors.htm about 1/6 way down, right before the ceramics. 800 series right angle, male.

If I just put a relay coil between the two wires, will that be sufficient for the stock controller to function correctly? I could put the coil between the factory pigtail, put power on the switched side, pigtail wire to common, and ground the other pigtail wire? That way it's using all factory forms, but the factory switch is driving the relay, which drives the ballast?

This page says it would work? http://orca.st.usm.edu/~jmneal/tiburon/hids.htm