2000 dakota no power at ignition
Hmmmm. I misread that then, sorry about that. You may want to use a different point for ground and recheck all those wires again. That one should have 12V on it in the run position. I'll look at the diagrams some more and see if I can figure anything else out.
Quick rundown of what you should see on each pin:
1 - Yellow - 12V in START position
2 - Dark Blue - 12V in START and RUN positions
3 - NOT CONNECTED
4 - Pink w/Black tracer - 12V all the time
5 - Black w/Orange tracer - 12V in RUN position
6 - Black w/White tracer - 12V in RUN and ACC positions
7 - Red - 12V all the time
Hoping this helps...
1 - Yellow - 12V in START position
2 - Dark Blue - 12V in START and RUN positions
3 - NOT CONNECTED
4 - Pink w/Black tracer - 12V all the time
5 - Black w/Orange tracer - 12V in RUN position
6 - Black w/White tracer - 12V in RUN and ACC positions
7 - Red - 12V all the time
Hoping this helps...
Dakoman, your PCM isn't getting the start/run signal, from the ignition switch, without resolving this problem. It is too early to say if it has failed but it has nothing to do with getting power to the stereo for example.
Since it appears that nothing controlled by the ignition switch is working thats where we're focusing.
The test light was considering the black w/ white tracer as a ground as the small amount of current that it takes to illuminate the light is passing just enough current through the accessories to find ground. Dakoman, just to prevent any confusion you should use a real ground, the frame or body.
Again, if you have the connector at the ignition switch connected, with the key to "run" you should find power at:
Red
Pink w/ Black tracer
Black w/ Orange tracer
Dark Blue
Black w/ White tracer
With the key to "start":
Red
Pink /w Black tracer
Dark Blue
Yellow
The only two fuses that are involved with any of this are the two 40 amp fuses, 9 and 10 in the PDC under the hood. The red and PK/BK are the inputs the others are the outputs. If the inputs are good and the outputs aren't, the switch has a problem.
Since it appears that nothing controlled by the ignition switch is working thats where we're focusing.
The test light was considering the black w/ white tracer as a ground as the small amount of current that it takes to illuminate the light is passing just enough current through the accessories to find ground. Dakoman, just to prevent any confusion you should use a real ground, the frame or body.
Again, if you have the connector at the ignition switch connected, with the key to "run" you should find power at:
Red
Pink w/ Black tracer
Black w/ Orange tracer
Dark Blue
Black w/ White tracer
With the key to "start":
Red
Pink /w Black tracer
Dark Blue
Yellow
The only two fuses that are involved with any of this are the two 40 amp fuses, 9 and 10 in the PDC under the hood. The red and PK/BK are the inputs the others are the outputs. If the inputs are good and the outputs aren't, the switch has a problem.
k thanks guys i did try grounding to the truck but i didnt seem to get any power on anything then but ill try again tommorow n ill come on here and reply n let yas know wat happens again thanks guys
Can you find the starter relay in the PDC? If you jump pins 87 and 30 on it the truck should crank.
Pull the relay, you should see 5 pins. 3 Horizontal and 2 vertical. Jump the 2 vertical to crank.
At this point I'm just trying to find out where the power is. The battery is good, right?
Pull the relay, you should see 5 pins. 3 Horizontal and 2 vertical. Jump the 2 vertical to crank.
At this point I'm just trying to find out where the power is. The battery is good, right?



