My 02 Dak V-6 was showing a P1281 code (engine cold too long). I replaced the t-stat a with 195 degree Fail Safe t-stat ($12). Two days later the code came back, so I changed the coolant temp sensor ($9). The code came back again. The engine was still straining and burning way too much gas. So, I replaced the fan clutch, and I had to buy a fan clutch spanner wrench to remove the clutch. The clutch and wrench $100.00. The same problems continued. An internet search about Fail Safe reviews showed the stat as bad news. I should have researched the product instead of taking the clerk's recommendation. The t-stat concept did sound great though.
I changed the t-stat today with a premium grade, STANT t-stat 195degree. Now my temp gauge is where it should be and my engine is running smooth again.

 

I'll keep this in mind in case mine ever starts acting like that. And congrats on getting it fixed.

Also welcome to the forum!

 

Can you bring the wrench and stuff back? I just removed my clutch fan a week ago for EXACTLY $0.

 

I wish I could bring the other parts and tool back but I'm screwed...I hate having to eat the price of the wrench but a man can never have enough tools At least I know the cooling system is almost new.

Oh joy time to flush the system now...what headache can that bring.

 

Sucks man. I know on here I read bad reviews about them, might of been in the 2nd gen ram section

 

Just out of curiousity, where is the coolant temp sensor? My V6 won't show normal operating temperature on the dash gauge. I replaced the T-Stat and flushed the coolant.The car seems to be pretty smooth and I don't have any Check Engine Lights, so I was thinking it was just the sensor.
Thanks,
Matt-

 

For the V-6: facing the engine. Undo the belt, just loosen it, you dont have to completely remove it. Undo the generator, you can move the gen out of the way. You dont need to remove the gen wiring. Once moved you will see the sensor,its next to the smaller hose going into the manifold. Two wires are attached to it. The wire plug is not locked on so you just can pull it out but DONT PULL BY THE WIRES ONLY. Then use a very, very deep well socket to remove the sensor. Wrenches are almost usless to remove the sensor. HINT: Test your socket at the auto parts store before you leave. The sensor requires 8lbs of torque too tighten; dont muscle it down the sensor is brass or copper. You can put the wires back anyway their not specific. Let me know if you have any more questions. The 2000 manual download section farther back in its post has a 2001 manual for download it will explain everything.

 

my fail-safe t stat has been mint and ive been running it for about a year now

 

Thanks scme.... Definitely helpful... For some reason, I didn't recall seeing these directions in my Chiltons Manual. Maybe I was in the wrong section.