Yeah, taking the system off won't fix the problem, but it may be what caused it. I think there is a good chance it is what caused it since you don't have all the other electrical options and it's what caused mine. Although, I'm not sure what it is that causes an alarm/security systems to fry the CTM...

 

If Amullins' alarm has been installed in the truck for any length of time, chances are it was installed correctly or at least correctly enough not to damage the CTM. The CTM has inputs and outputs on it. Some are 12 volts positive, some are low voltage and some are negative. The inputs are from switches or other signals in the truck, like there is a switch sense input wire for the parking lights and another switch sense input for the headlights, from the headlight switch on the turn signal lever/multi-function switch. Same deal for the wipers and dome lights. Then the CTM has 12 volt outputs to each respective accessory or circuit.

I think his CTM might be toasted, but this does not sound to me like the alarm caused the CTM failure. If there was a problem with his alarm it would have surfaced right after or very soon after it was installed. I still think there is a serious low voltage problem in his truck, his battery died and took the CTM out with it. There's no way that a basic alarm module can draw 3 volts and .7 amps of current. If that happened it would literally smoke the alarm to the point of melting and/or causing a fire. An alarm at rest and turned on is only going to draw at most about 5 milliamps of current. The truck would have to sit for months without being started for an alarm to draw enough current to stop the truck from starting, and his truck started and he drove it to the store.

In a basic alarm installation on a 01 Dakota there are only 3 connections you should make at the PCM. One is for the parking light flash, it is best to use the negative switch input at the PCM for that, then there are two door open trigger wires. You have to use diodes and isolate these from each other if you have only one door trigger input on your alarm. Both of the door trigger wires are from the door latch switches, the driver's door has one of its own and the passenger and rear doors if it's a quad cab all have a common trigger wire and both are also done on the switch input side of the PCM.

It is possible that a bad alarm installation can cause problems with the truck but this does not sound that way to me. I think there is either a really bad ground connection somewhere, there may be a bad B+ connection at the back of the alternator, or more likely the alternator failed and took out the battery and when the battery failed after the additional strain of driving a few miles to the store only on battery power it took out the CTM because of the extreme low voltage. It could have also taken out the PCM or at least damaged the voltage regulator in the PCM but he needs to get the battery and alternator tested and replaced first to be able to tell if the PCM is OK. I think he would also have the "No Bus" or one of the other PCM fault codes too if the PCM is bad now. I would say worry about the PCM if/when you need to and check the alternator and battery first.

This is just my 2 cents on it. I don't mean to sound like Mr. Know It All here. Whatever it is I hope it's a cheap and easy fix. Let us know how it turns out.

Jimmy

 

Took the alternator in for a test. It passed with flying colors! So, now I'm going to check all of the grounds. I'd previously checked them (made sure they were secure) but didn't clean them up. I also placed my CTM order ($298 + tax) with the dealer and was told it'd be a few days before it arrived.

That should give me enough time to put the dash back together. Oh, did I forget to mention that? I thought, originally, that I had a short because I was showing resistance between the hot (OR) wire to the LED above the center console (under dash) and a ground wire. And, so, I set out to locate the short. At any rate, I had to take the dash apart to repair a part of the mechanism that directs airflow from the blower. A little plastic piece fell out from under the dash sometime during the winter when I had the heater up fairly high. Looks as though the glue that was holding the piece in place, gave way (probably due to heat).

BTW:
My alarm only had 2 connections to the CTM:

1. TN - driver door ajar switch sense
2. TN/RD - passenger door ajar switch sense

*The majority of the connections were to wires on the column.

 

I am glad to know the alternator checked out OK. If it were me I would carry the alternator to a different parts store and have it tested again just to confirm it really is OK. I have heard of parts store alternator and battery tests being either inconsistent or inaccurate altogether.

If everything else is OK and all it takes is a new CTM to get the truck fixed that will be good. Looks like it will take some work re-assembling the dash too. I have heard of a CTM causing problems with lights, dome lamps, dash lights, door locks etc but as long as I have been on this forum I have never heard of a CTM drawing so much current that the truck would not run. But I guess anything is possible.

One other thing to check might be the wiring harness to the CTM as it runs up the inside of the kick panel. I remember reading a post either here or on dodgedakotas.com from a guy who had a bunch of CTM-related problems, he spent a lot of time and money on trying to fix it. Nothing he did worked and he finally traced the CTM harness back up the kick panel and found where a sharp metal edge had chafed and cut through some of the wiring going to the CTM.

Please when you get it all fixed and back together, let us know what was the cause of the problem with your truck. I would like to know what it was so I can look out for it on my own truck, and maybe it could help out someone else who has CTM problems too.

Jimmy