I feel like an idiot for even posting this but I am just changing the oil on my '97 Dakota 4x4 w/3.9L V6 (which hadnt been done for at least 4 years. I know, I know, previous owner let it set). I drained the oil, broke the oil filler cap in half, got the filter off after having to skewer it with w screwdriver to loosen it and now how the heck to do I remove the filter from the space it sits in???? I know it can be done because someone put that one in. Is there a trick to it? Please help...

 

If you have a oil filter wrench you can use that. If not you can go to a store that sells tools or auto parts and pick one up. I recommend putting a Fram filter on because it has the Grip on it to make it easy to put on and take off.

 

One thing that can be done is take an old screw driver and tap it at the base of the filter .Tap blade of screw driver at the 1 o'clock position to twist it to the left.You may have to hit it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break the tension on it then you should be able to finish taking off. Also try using a pair of needle nose pliers thru the holes and twist with a crescent wrench.

HTH

 

Are you looking at it through the wheel well over top the tire? You have to pretty much turn it sideways to get out. It sucks but its way easier than our old 02 f150 4.6 v8 you had to reach over the axle and all the crap. It would take me longer to get the filter out/in then it did for the entire job.

 

From the sounds of it your old filter is now trashed so a filter wrench will do no good. Blueqc's idea with the needle nose and cresent sound good, or just a flathead at an angle in and of the holes. Since the outer can is ripped apart, the more of it you can get out of the way the better. You may be able to grab onto the center where it threads on with Vicegrips. I had to skewer one once, not fun!

 

Fram filters are junk. If you want a filter just for the grip you are buying a filter for the wrong reason. If you really want a grip, buy a Purolator pureone filter. They have an abrasive coating and are a much better filter.

 

+1

No matter which filter you use it is always best to coat the rubber gasket with a light film of clean motor oil before you spin it onto the block. Use a rag and wipe down the filter mating surface so it is clean too. This will help you be 100% sure you did not accidentally leave the gasket from the old filter stuck to the block. That happened to me once back in the 1980's and it made a huge mess.

Tighten the new filter down by hand, about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact with the block. The gasket on any good filter will be treated with PTFE to help it seal but the motor oil on the gasket will seal it to the filter mating surface yet make it easier to remove the filter at the next oil change. One trick I learned is to break the filter loose while the engine is still hot. You don't have to remove it while it is full of hot oil, just uncsrew it a little so you can get it off easier after the engine and oil have cooled down. It is a whole lot easier to loosen the filter when it is hot. You can also poke a small drain hole in the bottom of the filter and let it drain so it won't gush oil down your arm and all over the undercarriage and possibly the floor if the drain flow misses your drain pan. Been there, done that too.

I always tighten my filter snug by hand, and I have a very strong grip, then tighten it just an inch or so further with my cap wrench. I have never had a filter to leak and only a few times have I had any trouble getting an old filter off of my Dakota. That was usually because I got sidetracked and let the truck sit too long and cool off too much before I tried to remove the filter. I have a pair of really good Snap-On filter pliers to get the filter off when that happens. Tractor Supply sells a good pair filter pliers too and so does Harbor Freight. I also have one of each of those if I need them.

Jimmy

 

Oh good lord I knew as soon as the word fram came up... If you want grip just get filters in bulk and spray bed coating on it and presto you have a grip on your filter. I can go on about my spiel on how both of my jeeps are running frams and my 95 has been for the past 210k but I wont to save time,space, and arguments lol

 

Thanks for all the replies. I discovered after about 2 hours that the guy who owned the truck before me must have installed the lift kit after he changed the oil and filter...over four years ago (!!!????). I found that by removing one of the bolts holding on one of the suspension components underneath the passenger side exhaust manifold, I could squeeze out the out filter and squeeze in the new one, albeit with some minor scratching of the paint. I did have to use a screw driver to loosen the old one and used a K&N as a replacement. Have any of you used the Royal Purple oil filter? I read that it's filtration is much better than others. Again, thanks for your replies and thanks for this site.

 

The Royal Purple and K&N filters are both made by Champion Labs, both are about the same construction but the K&N uses a different media and is said to have better oil flow characteristics than most other filters in that price range. The RP is said to be good for 12,000 miles, so it might be best to use with synthetic oil.

Jimmy