Pump the gas to start
So I my truck just started doing this and I am not sure what the cause is. With in the last 2 weeks my truck has stopped starting normally and has required me to tap the gas when turning the key to get it to turn over. Before this is was having a little problems starting normally just taking longer, but it did turn over eventually. I did a sea foam treatment a bout a month ago a couple of weeks before any of this started.
The odd thing is it only does this when its a cold start. If the truck has been on with in a couple hours it will start right up with out pumping the gas.
I am running some injector cleaner throug the fuel system right now in case an injector got gunked up. Changed the spark plugs and wires back in mid july. So not sure what it is. Any ideas would be helpful thanks guys. And just filled up with a new tank of 89 octane 2 days ago.
The odd thing is it only does this when its a cold start. If the truck has been on with in a couple hours it will start right up with out pumping the gas.
I am running some injector cleaner throug the fuel system right now in case an injector got gunked up. Changed the spark plugs and wires back in mid july. So not sure what it is. Any ideas would be helpful thanks guys. And just filled up with a new tank of 89 octane 2 days ago.
Last edited by Lebbie54; Oct 5, 2011 at 01:40 PM.
Depending on the miles on the truck, you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator. The regulator has a check valve in it that fails, usually around 120,000 or 125,000 miles. The check valve is there to keep fuel pressurized in the fuel line when the truck is not running. When the valve fails, after you shut off the truck all of the fuel in the line drains back to the gas tank. That is why after the truck sits for a while or sits overnight you have to turn the ignition on for a few seconds without starting the truck before it finally starts. Pumping the gas pedal and/or using fuel treatments have nothing to do with it, the fuel pump has to re-prime the fuel lines by itself when the check valve goes bad.
The longer time to start is a classic indicator of a bad fuel pressure regulator, and the only way to fix the problem is to replace the fuel pump. The regulator is an internal part of the fuel pump. I have heard most shops charge between $400.00 to $600.00 to replace a fuel pump on a Dakota. I replaced my own fuel pump myself, I had the same wait-to-start problem, it happened around 125,000 miles I guess. Others here have also replaced their own pump, it is not too hard of a job. I bought my new fuel pump at Advance, list price was $220.00, I used an online purchase discount code, paid $180.00 for it online and picked it up at the Advance store that same day.
Best way to tell for sure is to get a fuel pressure test gauge, Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that works fine. You can put the gauge on the test port of your fuel rail, start the truck, see if your fuel pressure is in specs, then turn off the truck and watch the needle on the gauge. If it falls below 30 psi in less than 5 minutes you definitely have a bad pressure regulator. Mine hit 20 psi in less than 3 minutes. The Haynes Book has all the specs for your fuel system. It has pretty good directions for replacing the fuel pump too.
Jimmy
The longer time to start is a classic indicator of a bad fuel pressure regulator, and the only way to fix the problem is to replace the fuel pump. The regulator is an internal part of the fuel pump. I have heard most shops charge between $400.00 to $600.00 to replace a fuel pump on a Dakota. I replaced my own fuel pump myself, I had the same wait-to-start problem, it happened around 125,000 miles I guess. Others here have also replaced their own pump, it is not too hard of a job. I bought my new fuel pump at Advance, list price was $220.00, I used an online purchase discount code, paid $180.00 for it online and picked it up at the Advance store that same day.
Best way to tell for sure is to get a fuel pressure test gauge, Harbor Freight sells a cheap one that works fine. You can put the gauge on the test port of your fuel rail, start the truck, see if your fuel pressure is in specs, then turn off the truck and watch the needle on the gauge. If it falls below 30 psi in less than 5 minutes you definitely have a bad pressure regulator. Mine hit 20 psi in less than 3 minutes. The Haynes Book has all the specs for your fuel system. It has pretty good directions for replacing the fuel pump too.
Jimmy
Last edited by 01SilverCC; Oct 5, 2011 at 02:02 PM.
The fuel pressure dropping to 0 on a cold vehicle is normal.
From the FSM:
Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition.
The fuel pump should be able to charge the line very quickly, or its likely failing. Either way, check the fuel pressure.
From the FSM:
Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition.
The fuel pump should be able to charge the line very quickly, or its likely failing. Either way, check the fuel pressure.
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I had problems with that on my truck just last winter and I ran all the different test on my fuel system, I ran a bottle of heat through my fuel system and it seemed to fix the problem, so all last winter every time I filled my fuel tank I put another bottle of heat in and didn't have any more problems with that. It is a cheap thing to try.



