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Pulsing during slow braking..... rotors or ABS?

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ

Best advice ever given
It would just be completely over kill for a daily driven dakota. You would never use the brakes to their capacity therefore wasting it basically.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:49 AM
  #12  
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definantly the rotors warped. i had the same problem with my old truck. good luck, and yeah, do not go too expensive. rotors and pads up in the front and your set!
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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I had the same problem about a year back. I fitted a set of EBC (Regular, not slotted or grooved, just vented) and a set of their Yellow Stuff pads.

When fitting them, it said in the instructions to check run-out with a dial-gauge and they were within tolerance. They also recommended getting the NEW discs ground true whilst on the vehicle! Needless to say, after about 5k miles, they've started pulsing again.

They now won't offer any warranty because I didn't the discs ground when fitting them. Has anyone else heard of getting brand new discs ground true?

Apart from the pulsing, they're great! Much improved stopping power at the expense of a little more brake dust on the wheels. Maybe I'll try another brand of discs but keep the EBC pads.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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You did just the thing most do think those fancy colored expensive pads and rotors are the cool thing to do but all you end up with is pulsing dusty problem disk drakes why spend $400 or more for problem brakes when $100 will get you dependable problem free and long lasting brakes and I may say free for life brakes like from Autozone new pads for life.

You just got scammed into spending big $ for nothing but headache’s.

You don't need anything crazy or expensive
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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While you don't need anything crazy or expensive, the cheapest ones really can suck. Middle of the line brakes are the best in my opinion. I've had really cheap brakes and they won't stop well, they can squek even though they're brand new, they give off a TON of brake dust, and don't last a long time.

So although you don't need to go buying top of the line brakes, I think it's worth while to get something in the middle. They will last longer, work well, and hopefully be quite.

Just my $.02 on brakes...
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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They weren't expensive at all. They were far cheaper than originals over here (the clue is in the Login!) and perform MUCH better than the originals.

I'll try the sand-paper routine soon!
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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Yes true bpark8824 never buy the cheap anything unless thats all you can afford at that time even then with brakes cheap to middle priced is maybe $10 or $15 so why go cheap to save $10.

DakinUK what did you pay for those pads the only place selling them is online at about $60 to $120 depending on the color/grade you buy (I was tempted to try them out I will admit) a good set of semi metallic will run about $30 to $40 if that and last you many years my brakes I changed out three years ago even though It wasn’t needed and those still look to give me another three years of use my rotors were new back in 2002 and have only been turned one time in that time and still run smooth for me.

I was tempted to try those fancy pads I will admit but decided why change what works just fine and have no problems with plus at those high prices why?
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Oct 27, 2011 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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Default Price over the top why?

I just priced those yellow pads on line and they are $150 so $150 compared to say $40 or maybe $50 for a good set of pads no thank you my friend.

So fancy rotors and pads = about $340




 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; Oct 27, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 04:06 AM
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I think paid about £62 for the discs and £65 for the pads. I can't remember the exact prices. At today's rates that makes it about $99 and $104. I thought was pretty reasonable.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 02:00 PM
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Keep in mind that on some of the 2nd Gen Dakotas, the support for the calipers wears into a half-moon shape allowing the calipers to become cocked. Eventually the edges of the pads will ride on the rotor, causing it to overheat and warp.

You can weld new steel onto the supports and grind them flat, or do as I do. I replace rotors about once a year with off-the-shelf plain old rotors and the problem goes away.

BTW, the expensive rotors warp too.
 
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