I replaced the left rear rotor, pads, and caliper. On the right rear I replaced just the rotor and pads. So the right rear has the original caliper and the left rear’s caliper was replaced.
I took the truck for a drive into town. It drove great but I could really smell the brakes when I got out of the truck. I felt the rims and the right rear was warmer than the other three. Driving into town takes about 20 minutes (10 miles) and is mostly downhill on country roads, so a fair amount of braking. The way back is mainly uphill, so less braking. I’ve never felt the rims before so I don’t know what is normal. But it seems odd that one rim would be significantly warmer. Not hot, but warm.
I checked the brakes after driving home and they still smelled, but the right rear was no warmer than the rest. I was thinking that the parking brake could be sticking. When I replaced the right rotor I had trouble with the parking brake pad sticking as I pulled the rotor off. I adjusted the parking brake using the star wheel. I tested both sides and they seemed to have the same free spin.
I drove down into town and back with the same results, though the smell was not there when I got home. I’m thinking that the parking brake is not the issue, because if it were then I should get the same results going into town as coming back. Likewise if the caliper or pads were slightly thicker, then I would not get a different behavior going into town as coming back. So it seems like the extra braking is causing the overheating.
I’m wondering if the old caliper is causing more pressure when braking, though I don’t feel it. Or, this is just normal wear in and the difference will go away in a couple more trips. At this point I have maybe 30 miles on the truck since changing the brakes. Not a lot of driving. How far do I need to drive to break in the pads and rotors?
Am I worrying about nothing or should I replace the right rear caliper? Other thoughts?
In case you are wondering, the weather here is in the 50s with rain.

 

Some thoughts

# 1 The old caliper is sticking a fix that has worked for me when this happens is pull the caliper out again and use a C-clamp to push the caliper pistons in all the way don’t force it too much do you have the two piston caliper or the single the two I don’t know how you compress both at the same time maybe a board across both will do. Sometimes one piston gets stuck pushing them in corrects the sticking.

# 2 they just need to seat in a bit as long as the rotor is not getting black or dis-colored they should be fine.

I don’t think the older caliper is stronger more pressure than the new one so no to that.

 

You need to barnish or bed the new pads. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

NEVER attempt to push the caliper pistons back into the caliper using a c-clamp only. You run a very high risk of busting the piston. Always leave the old inside pad seated in the caliper and use it to push the piston back into the caliper. Place the c-clamp over the back of the caliper and the old pad and start cranking.

Another little tip. NEVER let the caliper 'hang' but the rubber brake hose. Use some type of hook to hang it from the frame. Hanging by the brake hose will cause it to brake apart inside, stop the flow of fluid and cause the caliper to stick.

 

These are single piston. I can try reseating it. I used a "C" clamp with the old pad to seat it the first time. I can use a thin piece of wood to protect the new pad.

The rotors look the same, no color difference.
Thanks.

 

I wonder if the new pads, are way thicker than the older pads
on the other side,.. Causing them to grab 1st. & doing most if not
all the work on that side. That I would think, would create more heat than
the other side,.. Just a thought, Could be way wrong.

 

If that was the answer you couldn’t put the caliper back on the rotor if you have room to put it back together you have all the clearance needed for proper operation.

Or look at it this way if the pads were too thick you couldn’t even put it back together the parts would just not fit.