Greetings All!

Hoping to shed some light on a problem I am having that everytime I think I found the issue, something new starts. I will start at the beginning.

1998 Dodge Dakota 4X4
3.9L V6 Magnum

About two months ago, I was having occasional issues where when I turn my key, I would get nothing. No click, no crank, nothing. If I waited a minute and try again, the truck roared to life. Also, it seemed that the dash lights, headlights, etc would flicker when the truck was in operation. I checked out some stuff and found the battery terminals to be bogged pretty good with corrosion so I cleaned them off, cleaned the posts and everything had seemed to return to normal.

About 3-4 weeks later, the starting problem returned and this time I would get some clicking. After finding the battery not holding a charge well (4+ years old), I decided to change the battery and also splice in a new negative terminal because the one on the truck was in pretty bad shape, loose, etc. Once again the issue went away (or seemed to). It started again a few weeks later and this time to do some analysis (keep in mind I know little about this) and I put a Digital Multimeter on the battery and I got a 12.8V reading. I turned the key to the ON position and the battery dropped to 12.7V. I engaged the key fully, got no crank, but the meter read 12.3V. After a minute another attempt started the truck and the meter read 14.08V. While the truck was running, I also metered the alternator and also got the 14.08V reading. I made an assumption that I should plan on a starter next pay.

Today, I go to start the truck and as I have been doing, I would put the key into the ON position and wait for the dash to fully come to life then crank the engine. First attempt, no crank and when I fully engaged the key, I lost all my power. As of when I came home last night I had 14.07V on the running vehicle, 12.8V on the battery. As I had to get to work, I neither had the time to search for a problem, nor the knowledge of what I am looking for.

Do I have a short? I don't want to buy a starter if it is not the starter. Any help for a layman would be appreciated.

Thanks, Joel

 

First I'd check the wire connections to the starter where they connect to the starter and make sure none of them are loose or corroded. If they are, tighten or clean as necessary. If all the connections check out OK, the next time it won't start give the starter a couple taps on the bottom with a hammer and try it again. If it starts after the taps then replace the starter.

Another way to check is the locate the the gray colored connector with a single brown wire going down to the starter. The gray connector should be located in front of the brake master cylinder at the inside edge of the PDC (fuse box). Disconnect the gray connector and run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the end going down to the starter. If the starter engages then I'd start looking at maybe replacing the ignition switch. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your response. I have a silly question, would bad/loose/corroded wires at the starter cause me to loose all my power when I attempted to start it? Prior to the car starting, the battery powers everything, right?

Joel

 

That sounds more like a bad ignition switch but I'd check out the steps I mentioned previously to rule out a bad starter before I replaced the ignition switch because those steps are FREE.

 

Does the power come back on when the key is returned to the "Run" or "accessory" positions? ...or does it kill it compeltely until the key is moved back to the "off" position?

The power is actually supposed to be cut to all the accessories when the key is turned to the "Start" position. This is a fail-safe measure to insure that all available power is routed to the starter, in case you need all the CCAs you can get.

 

5hundo:: No, this morning when I turned it back off and pulled the key out I had nothing. There was a faint click from under the dashboard that I think at full power would be my door open dinger.

I am at work now until 9PM so I will not get back to looking at this matter, unfortunately, until tomorrow afternoon.

 

I would also look under the dash at the wires that lead to the ignition switch. I've seen people add things under the dash and not get the switch wires connected well or some of the other wires and it will do strange things.

 

Here is an update - Today when I got home from work, I figured before I climb down and under, I would start at the top. First I metered the battery and it read 12.28V so we were OK there. I had my daughter get in the cab and I first shook the connections of the negative splice I put in which was an aftermarket splice kit from an auto parts place designed that it is a whole new terminal with the lead wires and you just cut the old and splice in, etc.

Anyway, no change wiggling my splice. I then wiggled the positive and the power came back on. I had my daughter give it a try and just a click and dead. I wiggled the positive and tried three more times and she fired up on the third. It was also then that I noticed the positive terminal was not tight on the battery post. I know that this is a bad thing and will mimic many other problems. The battery is new and the positive terminal bolt is tightened all the way and is can still be wiggled.

I understand that there is some sort of sleeve that fits over the battery post that makes it "thicker" so I can then tighten down the terminal; is this true? I guess I am glad I started at the top.

Joel

 

It sounds like the terminal is the wrong size.

Do you have a spare nail around the house...? (the shorter the better)

If so, drive the nail between the battery post and the terminal (without piercing the battery, obviously). That will get you going until the cable can be replaced.

 

I picked up the post shims while at work today. I don't think they are wrong size, I just think the terminal is beat and old. It moves ever so little but darn if it doesn't seem to affect the starting. I will shim it today after work and start looking for the right oem positive batt cable replacement.

Joel