Last issue to fix on my list: Upper vents do not blow air…
#11
05-09-2012, 12:00 AM
Do you have a/c or not?
The temp issue is separate. The temperature is controlled by a cable actuated door. The defrost/panel issue is vacuum operated.
If you aren't getting vacuum to the control head (*****) it will default to defrost. Near the power brake booster, in the smaller vacuum line, there should be a plastic check valve. It may have failed.
You can check for vacuum at the control head too. Just pull the connector off.
The temp issue is separate. The temperature is controlled by a cable actuated door. The defrost/panel issue is vacuum operated.
If you aren't getting vacuum to the control head (*****) it will default to defrost. Near the power brake booster, in the smaller vacuum line, there should be a plastic check valve. It may have failed.
You can check for vacuum at the control head too. Just pull the connector off.
#12
05-18-2012, 02:28 AM
Very delayed update!
The vacuum hoses are actually OK - had'em tested.
My problem(s) are the flappers...they're all kaput. I've watched videos on how to replace them and it's not that I couldn't possibly replace them myself but it looks like a nightmare to do and I don't want to put myself through that.
I've had a bunch of work goings-on/lined up lately (hence my absence from here) and I think I can pay for someone else to do it...as much as that KILLS me to say.
Now I have to figure out how I can do without my truck for a day or two to get this all sorted.
STAY TUNED!
My problem(s) are the flappers...they're all kaput. I've watched videos on how to replace them and it's not that I couldn't possibly replace them myself but it looks like a nightmare to do and I don't want to put myself through that.
I've had a bunch of work goings-on/lined up lately (hence my absence from here) and I think I can pay for someone else to do it...as much as that KILLS me to say.
Now I have to figure out how I can do without my truck for a day or two to get this all sorted.
STAY TUNED!
#13
05-18-2012, 02:42 AM
Totally Agree With The Vacuum Hose, The Little One Near The Brake Booster, The Little Check Valve Was Clogged With Carbon Or Something Black In It, And Subsequently, The Air Goes Just Everywhere Else, But Not In The Front Vents, I Just Took That Thing Off, Cleaned With A Philips Screwdriver Thru The Hole And That's It, Problem Solved....Cheers...
No one wants to see a grown man cry while driving home after nailing up a new roof on a typical July day.
#14
05-18-2012, 09:23 AM
Do you have a price quote?
Do you have a price quote?
The price to have your dash removed fix the HVAC box and put it all back together will be around $800 to $1200 you know that right?
If going that far you had better get everything inside that HVAC box inspected and replaced if even they think either the heater core is looking sort of bad or the A/C Evaporator Core looks kind of bad replace them now you don’t want to get this done again for 5 more years at that price.
You may as well have them replace the blower motor at the same time I think they are about $40 as I said you don’t want to pay to have this done any time soon.
It’s a lot of hard work that’s why they charge so much to do it plus you’re A/C will need to be evacuated and recharged also.
That is why I’m doing this myself next winter to save me the high price tag.
One word of caution make sure 100% that they replace as many foam seals as possible because at 10 to 14 years old all that foam is in bad shape and if they put it back together with old bad foam you now have a leaky HVAC box and the leaks can be very bad and screw up your air-conditioning real bad it lets hot or cold air leak into the cab this can be a very serious problem look around you will see many Dakota owner complaining about cold or Hot air leaking into the cab making your cab very uncomfortable and the problem is as simple as bad foam seals.
These foam seals are a big problem get them replaced or suffer bad A/C and heating.
The price to have your dash removed fix the HVAC box and put it all back together will be around $800 to $1200 you know that right?
If going that far you had better get everything inside that HVAC box inspected and replaced if even they think either the heater core is looking sort of bad or the A/C Evaporator Core looks kind of bad replace them now you don’t want to get this done again for 5 more years at that price.
You may as well have them replace the blower motor at the same time I think they are about $40 as I said you don’t want to pay to have this done any time soon.
It’s a lot of hard work that’s why they charge so much to do it plus you’re A/C will need to be evacuated and recharged also.
That is why I’m doing this myself next winter to save me the high price tag.
One word of caution make sure 100% that they replace as many foam seals as possible because at 10 to 14 years old all that foam is in bad shape and if they put it back together with old bad foam you now have a leaky HVAC box and the leaks can be very bad and screw up your air-conditioning real bad it lets hot or cold air leak into the cab this can be a very serious problem look around you will see many Dakota owner complaining about cold or Hot air leaking into the cab making your cab very uncomfortable and the problem is as simple as bad foam seals.
These foam seals are a big problem get them replaced or suffer bad A/C and heating.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-18-2012 at 09:36 AM.
#15
05-18-2012, 09:49 AM
This is the one in blue
This is the one in blue that if not replace with new foam can leak vast amounts of outside air into the cab it’s a 1/2 inch gap if the foam is missing or crushed down with age.
The green foam seal will not leak outside air in but if missing or bad can cause whistling and poor air coming through the vents because it’s now leaking 20% to 35% of the air under your dash not out your vents.
The green foam seal will not leak outside air in but if missing or bad can cause whistling and poor air coming through the vents because it’s now leaking 20% to 35% of the air under your dash not out your vents.
#16
05-18-2012, 01:06 PM
Why?
I’m warning you about the foam seals because the IDIOTS that worked on my A/C box back in 2006 either didn’t replace my top seal or it fell off when they were working on it my foam seal was gone no foam seal at all just a ½ inch gap.
So for 3 years till I figured what was going on I had HOT 115 outside air seeping inside my cab diluting my cool A/C to the point I had cool air but not as cold as It should of been it was ok cool but not the best and took a long time to cool down my cab way to long.
When you get into a car sitting in Arizona’s summer 115 heat the inside of your truck is more like 160 yes 160 so you want nice COLD A/C not just sort of cool A/C unless you like sweeting for 20 minutes.
So for 3 years till I figured what was going on I had HOT 115 outside air seeping inside my cab diluting my cool A/C to the point I had cool air but not as cold as It should of been it was ok cool but not the best and took a long time to cool down my cab way to long.
When you get into a car sitting in Arizona’s summer 115 heat the inside of your truck is more like 160 yes 160 so you want nice COLD A/C not just sort of cool A/C unless you like sweeting for 20 minutes.
#17
05-26-2012, 08:22 PM
my temp control does nothing and i cannot change from anything but defrost any help??, i checked the check valve (brake booster) its ok, and even when heat is off i still get warm air coming from defrost..and summers coming 02 dakota 4.7 w/ factory air..where should i start, this is my next project..darn near my last lol
#18
05-26-2012, 08:28 PM
#20
05-26-2012, 08:32 PM
I dont think I can help
I don’t think I can help I know the early 2-nd gen Dakota A/C but they changed things considerably after 2000 or 2001 mainly it’s now electric servos not vacuum controlled as far as I know.
I’m not familiar with an 02
I’m not familiar with an 02
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-26-2012 at 08:38 PM.