Backfire from Hell (video)
I almost heard the backfire in the video. Did it sound like popcorn and that it was coming from the intake? My ram 5.2 did the exact same thing. Intermittent backfiring and I would lose all power, engine never stalled but going up a hill was tricky. Anyway it was the O2 sensor. My ram had one before the single cat and one after it. The front one was bad but I ended up replacing both. After that she ran like a champ. To test them I would safely measure the voltage across them to check what they are reading. Should be about .5 volts or so, anything FAR away from that will run the engine too lean or too rich causing backfire. There are 4 wires connected to your O2 sensor, two for the heater and two for the sensor, I don't know which is which you just have to try the combinations with a voltmeter. Also the computer might not throw a code if it is bad so best to check with a voltmeter before spending 80bucks on a new sensor.
@moparnick
Yes that's exactly what it sounds like - not sure if its the intake however. The 3:00 minute mark is where you hear it backfire atleast 10 times.
I will try to crawl under tomorrow after work and test it out (I have a multimeter). Do our trucks just unbolt at the cat or do you have enough room to work with?
Never actually had a look there myself.
Last edited by sxrsil3nt; Jun 10, 2012 at 09:16 PM.
I'm not too familiar with the 3.9 but I do not think it unbolts at the cat. Its probably cats+midpipe as an entire section which the exhaust and tailpipe slide into. Here is what I would do. You need to have the engine running and you also need the O2 sensor in question to remain plugged into the harness.
You will have to cut away the outer sheeting covering the sensor's wires. Once you have all for wires available, gently trim some insulation away until you expose the metal conductor. Try to do it in the way you would peel an apple. Do this in a different section on each of the four wires and only trim maybe half an inch. You will need to use electrical tape to insulate the wires when you finish. A few wraps around each exposed area should do the trick.
Then you need to experiment. Take two of the wires and connect alligator clips to the metal you exposed and connect the other ends of the alligator clips to your multimeter. Then drag your multimeter out from under your truck so you can view it without being underneath. double check that nothing is touching the wires which could cause any shorts.
Now start the truck and let it idle. Look out/get out and check the meter. Let it sit 30s-1min and note the voltage. One combination should give you a volt or less (sensor) and the other combination will probably be several volts (heater).
FYI I have not used this procedure yet but if I had to check this is how I would do it. There is little space and you might have a hard time getting to the wires. You can always unplug the sensors and move the wire to a more comfortable position to strip away a piece of insulation but make sure you reconnect it before starting the engine.
You will have to cut away the outer sheeting covering the sensor's wires. Once you have all for wires available, gently trim some insulation away until you expose the metal conductor. Try to do it in the way you would peel an apple. Do this in a different section on each of the four wires and only trim maybe half an inch. You will need to use electrical tape to insulate the wires when you finish. A few wraps around each exposed area should do the trick.
Then you need to experiment. Take two of the wires and connect alligator clips to the metal you exposed and connect the other ends of the alligator clips to your multimeter. Then drag your multimeter out from under your truck so you can view it without being underneath. double check that nothing is touching the wires which could cause any shorts.
Now start the truck and let it idle. Look out/get out and check the meter. Let it sit 30s-1min and note the voltage. One combination should give you a volt or less (sensor) and the other combination will probably be several volts (heater).
FYI I have not used this procedure yet but if I had to check this is how I would do it. There is little space and you might have a hard time getting to the wires. You can always unplug the sensors and move the wire to a more comfortable position to strip away a piece of insulation but make sure you reconnect it before starting the engine.
Hmm. It might be something else. Even if you unplugged the O2 sensors it should really still start up. Usually vehicles run open loop until the O2 sensor heats up enough to provide correct data. Maybe the crankshaft position sensor has gone bad. let us know what the garage says.
I'll keep you posted - and I have already changed the crank sensor.
Really starting to lose hope... Backfire... Just replaced wheel hub... Need to fix front u joint.
Dropped a ton of money into this thing and its turned around and bit me in the ***.
Really starting to lose hope... Backfire... Just replaced wheel hub... Need to fix front u joint.
Dropped a ton of money into this thing and its turned around and bit me in the ***.
4X4 are money pits unless you need 4X4 stay away from any used 4X4 same with any top line model with electric everything they become money pits as they age.
Nice features but more to go wrong with them with age.
Nice features but more to go wrong with them with age.
Truck spent 2 days in the shop - I've been told that it indeed was an o2 sensor causing the backfire. As for the truck not starting - after it sat overnight waiting to be looked at it started fine in the morning for him so all is good... If i had to guess I may have had air in the fuel lines or something - I'm not really sure. I'm picking it up today after work and over the next couple of days I will let you guys know the situation.






