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Update cooling system still hot

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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #21  
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I have been looking. But no luck. Found 1 and it was $1600 and Giffin which is a good brand doesn't even make one for a Dodge.Not putting a lot of miles on the truck right now so I am going to take some time and see what comes up.

98 Dakaz
Nice and clean motor. Truck overall looks nice and well taken care of.
 

Last edited by mmguy18; Jul 4, 2012 at 12:50 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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Apparently the plastic can crack or separate from the housing at a lower pressure than the Rad Cap will open at. Other wise the pressure should be released into the overflow tank.

When my wife's cracked; the fan had just kicked on.. she turned it off and i noticed coolant.. I'm like wtf.

Maybee putting a weeker Rad cap to release pressure sooner is in order; currently she has an 18lb rad cap in there. ?? But then again.. if the pressure on the output side of the rad was lower pressure because clogs in the alum chambers them self.. guess there is not much you can do with that.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #23  
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Are you losing coolant at all? The 4.7s are notorious for head gasket issues. If you are losing coolant, a possible cause could be its burning it therefore it will run hotter. I am having a similar issue although the highest mine has ever got was around 1/2 no hotter and its been 105 around here consistantly. I am getting rid of my mechanical fan and doing a taraus 2 speed electric fan also run off a switch so it will work with the factory sensor and I can turn it on whenever.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #24  
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I'm running the Jeep Grand Cher. Recall Fan; mounted currently to my stock Shroud.. works ok.. except in 1.5 hours of stop and go traffic i finally hit 210 with the AC running. but i was sitting in heavy 105 degree Texas heat too.. Planning on making a custom shroud for the fan.. in due time.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #25  
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It doesn't appear to be leaking and the oil looks fine. It leaks out the overflow if it gets hot enough and that is if I am running the A/C or climbing a long steep hill. With every thing I have seen here and read about it appears the Radiator is clog somewhere and it is not letting the coolant circulate properly. I am currently on the hunt for new not rebuilt radiator.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:50 AM
  #26  
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You said you put back on the clutch fan, does it work? You should hear it roaring when the temp starts going up.

Call a radiator shop. Good ones can tell you if it is clogged by how much it flows.

Why replace a radiator if you don't have to.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mmguy18
Clutch fan is bad ,but I wired the e-fan direct and still running hot so I have kinda rule out replacing fan.
This.

Replace the clutch fan. The e-fan can't move the same amount of air as the engine driven fan.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #28  
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I don't believe it is. But even with a bad clutch fan and I have the e-fan wired direct would it really make it run that hot? I have a 180 thermostat and it runs around 205.
Every thing I have read the Radiator would be cheaper. Everyone that has bought a replacement from Auto zone,
advance auto, napa ,etc have been junk. The dealer wants over 100 for one.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #29  
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You can flow as much water as you want through a perfectly clean radiator but without enough air moving to cool it, you'll never drop the temp.

A 180 thermostat won't stop your truck from getting hotter if it can't dissipate the heat.

Try a boneyard for the fan clutch or get one of those "flex" fans.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Thumbs up 4.7 hot is a not good thing

Everything I have read is you don’t want to get the 4.7 Hot you get blown head gaskets very common. Get that two pass rad use some synthetic oil to help keep it a tad cooler and keep her clean. I think we are stuck with the plastic side cap rads. Make sure everything is in top running shape like the breather system that helps.
 
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