well the project is going to be from the frame up so bracing is all going to be put in with no problem.
as for the motor i am asking cause i am pretty much going to look for a donor truck to take all the stuff out of it to do this. about the 12v or 24v which one wound u suggest for the best power out put cause i plan on going twin turbo is i use the cummins.

 

12v is all mechanical so no programmer can be used which means no change on the fly power. To get more power out of the 12v cummins pretty much fuel plate,injectors and turbo. You will always have that power which is a pain for Driveability but you arent gonna drive it everyday. What I like about my 24v is. I can dd it and get good mpg but if I wanna pull all I have to do is put my programmer on level 6 and add 120hp right there on the spot. The 12v is def the simplest setup and prob better for a custom build. Also the 24v have the dreaded vp44 pumps which require constant pressure. If not you can kiss away a grand for a new vp44.

 

hmm thx for the information i think i might start to lean toward the 12v cummins. now to decide on the transmission.

 

Gonna need a built auto or dual disk clutch if your gonna have that much power.

 

well i was thinking i might have to go with auto cause making the linkage for the clutch and shifter to go around the motor to the back of the truck might be a pain in the butt.

 

well i dont know a lot about all those things im like only the basic but you are right auto would be easier

 

Id go with a 24V cummins engine with the 12V, P-pump conversion, it makes it pretty much the best of both generations minus the electronic control. Main reason I say this, is that it eliminates the weak VP pump but keeps the airflow of the 4 valves a cylinder.

 

hmm i guess i might look in to that but not sure yet.

 

The manuals use a hydro clutch so all you need to do is mount the reservoir and run the lines. Auto would be faster tho. The P-pump conversion is good but plan to spend at least 2k for the swap.

 

Arent autos faster mainly because you never remove load from the engine and that makes you never loose to much boost at shifts?

Ya cost is the downside to the p-pump but in the long run it seems worth it, also theres plenty of donor junkyard engines out there, just remember to only go for the 180-215 HP p-pumps the lower rated ones will have problems creating enough instant pressure in the lines to efficiently open injectors over stock size.