ABS computer needs to be reprogramed?

 

This is just a suggestion

Have you ever opened the diff and cleaned it out then new oil?

I think I saw someplace that if there is too much metal flakes in the diff oil it can through off the ABS sensor.

If you have never had the Diff oil changed it may be a good time to get it done very easy DIY job about $25 for everything get some ATV sealant and a new gasket.

Can’t say for sure this is the problem but it’s worth a try especially if you have not had it done you may be surprised how black and ugly the Diff oil can get

 

 

 

ABS computer or the RWAL valve dumping brake fluid to the accumulator.

The system can dump excess pressure to an accumulator, to prevent wheel lockup. If that valve is leaking or being triggered by the CAB you can feel a pulse.

I wouldn't just pull the fuse and drive it. It's not like a dome light won't shut off it's your brakes. Your life or someone elses can depend upon them working at their best. A dealer can test the system with a DRB. Most scan tools can't read the body codes but the dealer can test and actuate the system.

Good luck.

 

I don't know if it affects the ABS but disconnecting the battery will reset the PCM I think. Maybe that will help. Otherwise I would agree with the last post that it may be a dealer issue.
Good luck!

 

The only other thing I can think of, but seems unlikely since removing the fuse seems to "fix" the problem, is that the power brake booster is responding to changes in the vacuum at idle - maybe a bad check valve. You could also disconnect that temporarily and see if you have the pulsation.

Some brakes shops have scanners that can read abs codes, but I think you'd be best served at a dealer - even if just for the diagnosis.

 

It started with replacing the rear wheel speed sensor so maybe that's the problem a bad sensor makes sense to me. You said it never did it before correct? So if the ABS was bad it would have been doing this before you changed out the rear wheel speed sensor!

 

now we are all on the same page. haha

 

The thing that everybody is missing, is that it only does it at a stand-still or crawl. That alone removes any moving parts from the equation, and leaves the vacuum booster and ABS system.

Since the ABS fuse affects it, we can point to ABS.

Sounds to me like the accumulator valve is stuck in a partially open/closed state. Like, a piece of trash is stuck under the plunger.