I just got my 97 Dakota 3.9 100000 miles I just put my kenwwod in took out the old pioneer. And found that someone cut out the wiring harnees. So I taped mine up worked for a day. Took it back out to use butt connectors and it quit working. Checked CD player fuse radio fuse on the inside fuse box. Is there a secondary fuse under the hood didn't see one in the owners manual. Also how does everyone feel about syenthic oil in these trucks. This is my second Dodge first one was a very bad experience 2.7 intrepid. And major problems with these trucks or motors.

 

that's cause the 2.7 is a pile of junk. I had one as well nothing but issues. that high of miles on an engine I wouldn't bother it has a tendency to find leaks on an engine.

 

No on the secondary fuse.

I wouldn't run synthetic in an engine with 100k miles either, unless it has already been on synthetic for a long time.

 

I was just wondering because I had a s10 with 200000+ miles and switched yo syenthic oil. The Dakota has never been driven hard my uncle bought it new, And babied it. Anyone know how much bag kits are and a good brand I plan on sinking some money in this truck

 

Im not understanding this statment could you explain please? Why changing is not recomended?

 

Some say synthetic oil cleans so well that it can dislodge dirt and sludge and clog the oil passages and oil pump pickup screen. As long as the engine is in good shape you can run synthetic in an older engine, and it is perfectly fine to switch back and forth from synthetic to conventional. Personally I would advise against it, unless you are planning on doing extended oil drain intervals. That is one of the main advantages of synthetic oil, it stays in its grade longer and is better able to hold contaminants in suspension for a longer period of time. In an older engine with 100K on it I would just stick with a 3,000 mile oil change with a good conventional oil, just for the sake of preserving the innards of the engine. I think using synthetic in an older engine is a waste of money, because synthetic is so much more expensive than conventional and I do believe in changing oil at 3,000 miles. If the engine has any oil leaks or consumption problems you can try one of the high mileage oils like Maxlife or the new Quaker State Defy. Both have conditioners and seal-swelling agents to help stop or reduce leaks and consumption. They are also both synthetic blends and maybe could be run for a little longer oil change interval. You may take a hit on MPG and power with the HM oil because they are blended at the thicker end of their given viscosity.

Right now I am trying the Kendall GT-1 synthetic blend in my truck. I like the idea of how the titanium in the oil bonds better to the metal surfaces in my engine. So far I only have about 1,000 miles on the GT-1 but my engine runs a little smoother and feels like it has a bit more get up and go on this GT-1 oil. My truck has 153,600 miles on it and I have always done 3,000 mile oil changes. I am old school and I just believe that it is better to change it more often, especially as the engine ages.

As for the fuse, yes there is a secondary fuse for the audio system, it protects the constant 12 volts circuit that supplies continuous power for the clock and radio station presets. The one in the interior fuse panel is for the accessory voltage circuit of the radio. Look out in the fuse panel under the hood in the Power Distribution Center. You may find a blown 5 or 10 amp amp fuse that may be labeled "hazard" or "clock". That fuse is also for the memory circuits of the radio. If you can not find the right fuse, disconnect the negative battery cable and do it the old school way. Use needle nose pliers and remove and reinstall each individual fuse one at a time until you locate the blown fuse. Do this at both fuse blocks until you find the blown fuse.

Jimmy

 

I was always told that it cleans out the "deposits" that keep worn gaskets from leaking. True or not, I don't know, but that's the common claim.

I always run synthetic blend just cause I never had a vehicle nice enough to spend that kind of dough on and blend is always on sale. No problems here.

The only car I put full synthetic in was my Firebird that I bought with under 110k on. Used synthetic for like 40k and never had leaks.

 

I think most of these claims are old wives tales and has never been shown as a fact most were started by conventional oil products to put doubt in people’s minds so they don’t move into synthetic oil that’s a proven better all-round lubricant.

I have seen so many crazy out there claims about synthetic oil like it’s not as good as dino oil for cold weather it has a small temp window and that is plain bull that is what a synthetic is designed for a wider or I should very wide temp window it will not thicken like Dino oil will in cold weather.

Yes it cleans but slowly it will not strip old muck off an engine’s insides and clog it up yes I would recommend changing your oil more often after a switch the first year just watch your dip stick the first month or two to be sure it’s not getting black fast. Putting MMO in is about the same thing to clean an older engine out as using synthetic oil.

Now I will say if you have been using the cheapest oil you can find in your auto for years then switching to synthetic I would say stop don’t do it.

That and chainging your oil every year or less like some do

 

Well I did change over to syenthic oil. And it has already improved my performance just like iny s10. There is no linger a need to even hit the gas when I back out of the drive way. And I got the oil on sale it was only a dollar more a qt then what I usually buy. And my Dodge only takes 4 so it cost the same. As the s10. I no longer care about mpgs after driving a 77 suburban with a 454. If you have ever had to feed one you understand. thanks for the info about the second fuse I'm going to check it now.

 

About the oil,

Synthetic oils can affect the seal swell characteristics. It was a problem early on. I don't buy into the "cleans better" theory. IMHO all modern oils that meet the requirements for an API rating are sufficient in that respect. I do think that some oils, not just synthetics, have more than the minimums of detergents and also anti-wear additives.

Still, the best prevention is to change your oil at regular intervals.

I wouldn't go back and forth on synthetic/conventional due to the seals. Will it be a problem, probably not. I'm not going to take a chance.

Yup, forgot about the clock fuse.