Heater core replacement
#11
You may want to grab a junkyard used HVAC box and replace the part that way because these parts are now gone no longer available. I’m in the process of doing this grabbing a used HVAC Box to use as spare parts. Search for (Heater housing or Heater assembly) I don’t know why the junkyards call them that but that’s what you need to ask for.
Check everything in the box you dont want to need to pull it out again next year to replace the A/C evaporator do you or the fan motor they are cheap at $35 at rockauto I would replace the fan now?
Your local auto store may have them a lot of MOPAR autos use the same fan assembles
Check everything in the box you dont want to need to pull it out again next year to replace the A/C evaporator do you or the fan motor they are cheap at $35 at rockauto I would replace the fan now?
Your local auto store may have them a lot of MOPAR autos use the same fan assembles
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 12-15-2012 at 03:44 AM.
#12
I also suggest you check your foam gaskets especially the top one if that falls off or is smashed down you can get a very bad outside air leak like if it’s very cold outside that cold air can leak inside the cab and keep your feet very cold replace it with some Home depot door seal foam or and tape it up real good with some duct tape the good stuff before you button the dash back together.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 12-15-2012 at 09:39 AM.
#13
OMG! I changed one in my 69 428 Mach 1, but it was nothing like THAT job. I'm losing coolant some place, but can't find where. If I recall when my core was leaking in the mustang, I could smell it inside the car, there was a wet spot on the floor, and the glass fogged up all the time. This is making me think all the more that my radiator was never leaking into my tranny as my X mechanic claimed. I drove 600 miles round trip to Maine this weekend and heater is blowing luke warm and coolant used a quart getting there and a quart back. If it ever stops raining here I'll look for the leak.
#14
And... done!
So I finished the job, and let me tell you... it's a doozy! However, echoing everyone else, if you have the time and gumption, it's very doable. AND you will increase your mechanical knowledge 10x in the process. It took me probably 20 hours total (spread across two weeks, as I could only work a few hours each day, and was out of town for a few days). I'm certain I could do it in 1/2 the time if (God forbid) I should need to repeat the job. Just a few observations, in case anyone is inclined to take this on...
1. Having a garage makes a big difference. I did this in the middle of winter in northeast Ohio. I had to take the dash out completely, since we live in an apartment, and I don't have access to a garage. If I did (and could have left the doors open and the dash in place), I probably could have pulled it off in much less time. The cold didn't help either. Other folks who completed the job in less time seem to have done so under much better conditions.
2. The worst part of the job was getting the AC lines disconnected. You know those "quickconnect" fittings? That's a lie. I broke one set of release tools (AutoZone kindly refunded me my money on a plastic set, which I used to purchase a metal set at 2x the price), and then spent 1.5+ hours pulling at the dryer, trying to get it disconnected from the evap core. I pulled a muscle in the process.
3. Along with #2: I had to remove the air intake, washer fluid reservoir, and some hose clamps in order to access the AC dryer. I resisted this at first. Don't. Just resign yourself to the extra work.
4. As others have noted, you will end up with a LOT of screws, bolts, etc. Make sure you have a system for this. I put mine in plastic bags with pieces of paper, describing what each type of screw goes to (organized in a semi logical form - steering column, AC control module, etc.). Also, when in doubt, take pictures (although the ones in other posts are excellent, so this may not be needed).
5. Be careful when dropping the steering wheel. There are a lot of wires under there. Additionally, the gear indicator wraps around the steering column, so be sure to disconnect it before dropping the wheel.
6. As 98DAKAZ pointed out, you will probably need to replace more than you planned. I replaced the foam seals on the air box and JB-Welded a broken piece on the air box (didn't get one from a salvage yard because I wasn't sure about what I was getting). My evap core was in good shape, but a lot of folks will probably want to swap that for a new one, as well as the blower motor.
That's all I can think of at the moment! If anyone has any questions, feel free to contact me... and of course, thanks to everyone who commented and helped.
1. Having a garage makes a big difference. I did this in the middle of winter in northeast Ohio. I had to take the dash out completely, since we live in an apartment, and I don't have access to a garage. If I did (and could have left the doors open and the dash in place), I probably could have pulled it off in much less time. The cold didn't help either. Other folks who completed the job in less time seem to have done so under much better conditions.
2. The worst part of the job was getting the AC lines disconnected. You know those "quickconnect" fittings? That's a lie. I broke one set of release tools (AutoZone kindly refunded me my money on a plastic set, which I used to purchase a metal set at 2x the price), and then spent 1.5+ hours pulling at the dryer, trying to get it disconnected from the evap core. I pulled a muscle in the process.
3. Along with #2: I had to remove the air intake, washer fluid reservoir, and some hose clamps in order to access the AC dryer. I resisted this at first. Don't. Just resign yourself to the extra work.
4. As others have noted, you will end up with a LOT of screws, bolts, etc. Make sure you have a system for this. I put mine in plastic bags with pieces of paper, describing what each type of screw goes to (organized in a semi logical form - steering column, AC control module, etc.). Also, when in doubt, take pictures (although the ones in other posts are excellent, so this may not be needed).
5. Be careful when dropping the steering wheel. There are a lot of wires under there. Additionally, the gear indicator wraps around the steering column, so be sure to disconnect it before dropping the wheel.
6. As 98DAKAZ pointed out, you will probably need to replace more than you planned. I replaced the foam seals on the air box and JB-Welded a broken piece on the air box (didn't get one from a salvage yard because I wasn't sure about what I was getting). My evap core was in good shape, but a lot of folks will probably want to swap that for a new one, as well as the blower motor.
That's all I can think of at the moment! If anyone has any questions, feel free to contact me... and of course, thanks to everyone who commented and helped.
#16
I made the mistake of not replacing the foam seals...it gets hot but doesn't blow right out the vents, I use defrost to warm up the cab then the vents to keep it up to temp, not sure if I'll ever replace them. The steering wheel part is a good tip, I did my overhead console myself and know I didn't use the best method of connecting wires but only the temp works now. I just haven't had time to fix it but dropping the wheel is what did it. Congrats on the success and you are 100% correct about the garage being a huge help. Also The AC guy charged me $83 to discharge, recharge and disconnect my ac lines which made it amazingly easy for that part.