I would not try to drill the hole out bigger. The water jackets may be close to the hole and yu may get a leak. The best way to get a broken bolt out is to weld a nut to the bolt. Hold the nut flush with the head and weld thru the hole in the nut. It takes a lot of skill to do this. The heat from the weld also helps loosen the bolt in the head.

 

thanks for the advice, my neighbor is a 30 year heavy truck technician, my question is, if the person welding the nuts is skilled enough, can they pull off this weld with a stick welder (aka Arc)?

 

not sure what kind of resources you have, I've seen lots of tricks used, from welding a nut on, to drilling and pulling as mentioned, to easy-outs.

What Has worked in the past but may be hard to find, drilling the bolt, and tapping it for a LEFT HAND THREAD grade 8 1/4-28 bolt. Stuck bolt came right out.

You might be able to find a LHT metric grade 10.9 bolt easier.

 

at this point im willing to do everything i can to keep from havina go to a machine shop and get raped financally there, or having to replace the head.. cause if i do that, i might as well pull the other head, and replace both gaskets, then replace the intake gasket, cause i gotta remove intake to take the head off.. sh*t i should probably do anyway with 230k on the original motor.. but im going under the guise, dont fix what aint broke..

i tried drilling, easy outs, (snapped ez out and drill bit) only 2 options i got left are welding a nut, and taking a oxy/acetelyne torch(with heating tip, not cutting) and heat it enough to back it out with vice grips... WICH I WHAT I SHOULD HAVE DONE IN THE FIRST PLACE. but i had success with propane getting the other studs out, so i went with propane and failed..

id use oxy/acetelyne if i knew that it wouldnt damage the head..

i removed 3 studs successfully by heating and backin off with vice grips, snapped the 4th, and the 5th was already snapped, and the other studs came out when i took the manifolds off.

synopsis of above, DRIVER SIDE HEAD, all 4 came out, new studs in place.
PASS SIDE HEAD, 2 came out, 2 snapped

i have a strict deadline to get this motor to fire. BEFORE NEXT SNOWFALL.. and in massachusetts, that can happen at any time without notice.. i need to be able to move the truck so the plow guy can do his job with out any issue.. long story short, he cant plow the driveway all the way with my truck in its spot


side note real quick, my drive shat was left outside (before snow) and rusted up a but on the yoke for the tcase, do i need a new one, or can i sand it to bare metal using sandpaper?

 

Heat it up and try the vise grip method. With a rosebud heating tip, shouldn't bother the head too much. Don't get too overzealous with the heat, but it shouldn't take much to get it out. That said, if you tried propane and failed, not sure how much oxy will help.

If that doesnt work, put the welding tip on your torch, stick a nut on there, weld it up, and see if it pops out with heat still applied to it.

 

i say oxy acelteyne because it burns hotter than propane, and only like 500-750 deg hotter than mapp.. and mapp is like double propane... from what ive been reading on google

 

we use mapp instead of propane when necessary, we don't have an oxy set. I think you'd be fine with oxy-welding a nut on it, then using a heat source to make it come free.

 

hmm time to get me an OA kit.. or have my neighbor bring his by.. or something.. i have no idea yet..

 

you can get grade 2 bolts, nuts, and washers here. http://www.boltdepot.com/

 

so my neighbor says that he can fix this issue, but i have to take the head off to do so. so i did.

http://www.mydakotabuild.com/images/head.jpg

the piston cylinders were plugged with clean rags, and hopefully i get it back in a couple days. i also hope i get the head gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets