HELP!!! Exhaust Manifold SNAFU
when you get the hole right fallow these rules
1 do NOT use plated bolts.
2. DO use anti-size compound on all threads and bottom of bolt heads.
3. tighten all bolts to only 70-80% of full torque. first time
4. after 6-7 full heat cycles torque to full amount.
5. if they start to leek go to full torque.
these are just guide lines. some people may have other ideas, they might have good ideas, DONT toss them out, if different than my ideas. i DONT know it all.
1 do NOT use plated bolts.
2. DO use anti-size compound on all threads and bottom of bolt heads.
3. tighten all bolts to only 70-80% of full torque. first time
4. after 6-7 full heat cycles torque to full amount.
5. if they start to leek go to full torque.
these are just guide lines. some people may have other ideas, they might have good ideas, DONT toss them out, if different than my ideas. i DONT know it all.
would it be a bad thing if i used grade 8 for the manifold bolts?
YES. a hardened bolt will strip the casting out. best to use grade 2, it will strip the BOLT and leave the holes in the casting. so you can pick the metal out of the hole, and still be able to use the hole. it may be hard to find a grade 2. you may have to use a grade a 3 or 5. but DONT use a grade 8. a bit of history, the slant 6 had very long manifolds that tended to warp. the recommended torque was 10 ft lbs. this let the manifold flex but still seal.
YES. a hardened bolt will strip the casting out. best to use grade 2, it will strip the BOLT and leave the holes in the casting. so you can pick the metal out of the hole, and still be able to use the hole. it may be hard to find a grade 2. you may have to use a grade a 3 or 5. but DONT use a grade 8. a bit of history, the slant 6 had very long manifolds that tended to warp. the recommended torque was 10 ft lbs. this let the manifold flex but still seal.
my issue now is getting the 2 snapped studs out. i broke a bit in one, and an easy out on the other one.. im about to drill em out all together, and tap it for 3/8"... if possible..
i was not saying YOUR manifold is 10 lbs. i dont know what the small block mopar ext manifold is. the big block 1967 is 30 lbs on a 3/8 bolt, sounds like a lot. iam sure the small block is a little less. i dont want to guess what the small block is. new info. i found a place that says 30 lbs. sounds like to much to me i would use NO more than 25, 20 would be better. reff. http://boxwrench.net/specs/schrys_A.htm the grade 5 will be fine
Last edited by moe7404; Jan 11, 2013 at 08:48 PM.
thanks dan.. this truck is gonna kill me... haha but seriously, im gonna eventually need help.. most of my friends arent exactly useful... i gotta find someone that can help me with body work, i dont care if its sheet metal held on there with pop rivets.. as far as im concerned, it has to work 100% not look it, seeing its gonna get beat to hell being used for regional shipping.. i mean my ulitmate goal is to make it like factory new, but ill settle for it looking like its clean but beaten
Ha ha yea friend’s help is usually spotty at best most come just to watch have a beer and any free food. Or at the very last minute they can’t do it sorry I need to go to the store never fails
I had the exact same problem when replacing the exhaust manifold on my '98 3.9 - one of them snapped off.
We tried pb blaster, and even some 'cryo-spray' but neither worked.
In the end, we got it out by drilling out the body of the stud, so all that was left was the threads, and pulled them out, then cleaned out the female thread with a tap.
We tried pb blaster, and even some 'cryo-spray' but neither worked.
In the end, we got it out by drilling out the body of the stud, so all that was left was the threads, and pulled them out, then cleaned out the female thread with a tap.
I had the exact same problem when replacing the exhaust manifold on my '98 3.9 - one of them snapped off.
We tried pb blaster, and even some 'cryo-spray' but neither worked.
In the end, we got it out by drilling out the body of the stud, so all that was left was the threads, and pulled them out, then cleaned out the female thread with a tap.
We tried pb blaster, and even some 'cryo-spray' but neither worked.
In the end, we got it out by drilling out the body of the stud, so all that was left was the threads, and pulled them out, then cleaned out the female thread with a tap.
well not to knock that, but im still thinkin of just drillin em out and retapping for 3/8"x16... can anyone see a possible issue arising from doing that?







