Since I got my 02 dakota (QC 4.7 AWD) I had brake issues. I failed inspection several times. Brought it to place I bought it, brought it to mechanic, etc. They would get me past inspection, then I'd fail again next time. After fix, bralkes would work then eventually get "funny". By funny, I mean, for example, I would stop and sometimes my front abs would kick in, for no justifiable reason. I would be going down hill, and my brakes would start overheating from braking (hot enough to cook eggs and bacon on) Sometimes they would feel spungy and others they would work at top end then get spungy again. I had the lines bled, fluid changed, brake pads, shoes, calipers, rotors, bearings, etc. all replaced. Had it to several different mechs and no one seemed to know the problem I was talking about. This has been several years now, and I now change my own pads and shoes. Just changed out the hardware for the rears (springs adjuster, etc) as well as the shoes. Notices hairline cracks in the shoes, which makes me think opverheating. Anyway, I probably posted about this before a while back, but once again, aside from getting used to the fact that dodge made sh@1t for 2002, especially the braking and ball joints, which is another issue, I am curious/concerned. Like I said, I have gotten used to planning ahead to stop in time, not knowing if my brakes will stp me in time, which sucks. I have e-mailed DC and got no solutions, called several dealers explaining problen..... got nowhere. Anybody out there with 02 braking issues like me, and any suggestions/fixes? The best I heard so far from someone who sounded like they knew what they were talking about was that there is a sort of cylinder/block underneath (not the master) that channels the lines to the rear. He said he thought, from a previous dakota similar experience, that this was where the fault was. Where, it needed to allow more fluid pressure to rears....
Anyway, in my case, it seems if the rears are cracking they are getting overworked. But, I have gone through many rotors as well, and the abs locking makes me think its the front brakes. WHen I fail inspections, its from misaligned braking. I was sort of hoping at this point I would have gotten a new truck and be done with dodges, but I just cant afford a new one at the moment and really can't afford to pay for diagnostics that end up with no solution, or a temp. fix. I also thought maybe switching to discs on the rear, but this aint cheap either. I am hoping to start a topic on the crap brakes doge makes hear (at least for my year) and hopefully this will not only help me but others who have the same problem. I can't seem to find anything myself or anyone with the same problem? Is there anybody out there?

 

I'm not going to lie. When I saw the title, In my head, I went "Yes they do, it's in the SNAFU category with a half dozen other things".

After reading symptoms, I have 3 questions:

1) do all 4 corners bleed properly?

2) is your ABS light on?

3) Do you have 4 wheel ABS or rear only? By description, it sounds like 4WAL.

RWAL will have 2 solenoids right next to the master cylinder, while 4WAL's solenoid is under the battery.

1) If all 4 bleed properly, then we can assume there is no air in the lines.

2) If the light is on, then the computer knows something is wrong, and we need to ask it.

3) I can't speak on 4WAL, as I have RWAL. But with RWAL, there is a solenoid that is prone to getting stuck (usually by debris), and allowing rear brake pressure to vent into an accumulator instead of the brake line. This accumulator has a piston, which I believe you should be able to see extend out the back of the RWAL unit as the accumulator fills with brake fluid. There is also a solenoid which cuts off the system to prevent further brake application, but this solenoid is not known to fail/stick.

 

I don't know if this will help you, but I have 2002 RWD which has had its fair share of brake issues in the past. I would get random front caliper seizure and rear wheel lock up with barely applying the brakes. It acted like a defective ABS system. I have owned my tuck since new and have gone through 4 sets of front calipers and multiple pads and shoes. They failed at 13,32,61,and 80 thousand miles. At 80,000 miles I replaced my rear wheel cylinders with a good aftermarket brand after noticing small random leaks from the OEM ones. Since then, I have had no issues with my brakes. I also replaced the front calipers with a good aftermarket brand as well. Truck now has 108,000 miles. 28,000 miles with no brake issue.

 

I think Road1210 has a good answer.

The rear brake cylinders are junk on Dakotas they tend to freeze up and goop up if they leak.

I would start there replace the rear cylinders install new everything springs shoes all of it.

Second thing is flush out all the break lines completely get 2 large bottles of DOT 3 you will need it remember to use the proper bleeding order check on this but I believe its rear passenger side first then rear drivers side then front passenger side then drivers side front.

If you can replace all the flex lines they are cheap like $15 each do this first if you decide to do it there are 2 up front and one in the back.

Now replace the front brake pads use new caliper springs you probably have the two piston newer kind I believe on 2002 and up.

If you can afford it replace the calipers at this time also

All this if done by you should not cost much the calipers if you do replace them are the biggest cost.


Get the drums and rotors turned

This should get you like new brakes

Without the new front calipers it should run you $160 for parts or less


You could start by doing the back and a fluid flush and see what happens then move to the front brakes if problems are still going on

 

One more thing

I have found out always start with doing all back brake work first give them a week or longer to wear in.

Then move to the front brakes I don't know why this works but it does.

I have done my brakes front first then the back and always get the brake dragging sticking problem that these Dakotas have.

I think it messes up the ABS system some how

so always back first then front

If you do still get the brake sticking/dragging problem re bleed the system and depress the front caliper pistons in as far as they will go what happens is on older calipers they get muck in the pistons that can make them stick fully depressing the pistons frees them back up that's why I say replace them if you have the cash.

If you do have an ABS problem you may still have problems so understand this

 

One last thing are you sure some shop didn't put the rear brakes back together wrong it does happen and that could mess things up bad.

Don't forget to check the backing plate for grooves on the races were the brake shoes rub/mount if you have the grooves file them down flat so the shoes can move in and out if not they will bind and not function properly.

Look for any unusual wear on the shoes or other parts as they will help point you to any problem areas that may be the true problem always inspect parts you pull off.


rear Drum Brake Hardware Kit all parts $16



Rear cylinders each $10



New shoes $15 to $35




2 BIG yes BIG bottles DOT 3 $16





Almost forgot 2 cans of brake cleaner $12

 

I had a 1997 Dakota and loved it to death. It's still parked in my parents driveway at home. However, I had nothing but problems with the brakes, ball joints, tie rods.

It was a great truck though, even with those problems.

 

One thing the system flush I'm talking about is change out all the DOT 3 not just pump out a little fluid its change out every drop of old DOT 3.

You may try changing out the speed sensor as that's the ABS sensor also and its cheap it may be defective. Its on top of the rear diff

I suggest this also remove the rear differential plate and check out your rear diff clean it out and put back together with new oil.

 

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the info and I apologize for not replying sooner. Been busy so haven't had time to play around with the brakes, but I think I will start cheap and go from there...i.e. change out the fluid, cylinders, sensor maybe.... the last thing I did was change out all the hardware on the rears...ordered the stuff from Rock Auto. Not the cylinders, but the springs, the adjuster, etc. and the shoes. The drums looked good, but that was just me feeling for grooves, but do you think these might be worth changing out? I've had the rotors done a bunch of times, but never the drums? If the shoes came off with hairline cracks, heat is probably an issue, so maybe the drums got warped? Yet I don't think I feel any puslating when I brake. I think next I'll try the cylinderrs and the fluid bleed/change. Again, thanks for all the info...

 

Yes get a good look at the drums they may be cracked I had my drums turned last time and I noticed hairline cracks in both drums the shop that turned them said they were ok but I replaced them just to be sure as where the cracks were the spot looked discolored like heat damage.

Usually about $50 each

Be sure to check if all the hardware was installed correctly by the shop or whoever installed them last time as that may be part of the problem incorrect brake installation

Don't forget to check the backing plate for grooves on the races