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Where can I find a 16 tooth reluctor wheel for a 4.7V8?

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Old 04-07-2013, 05:59 PM
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Default Where can I find a 16 tooth reluctor wheel for a 4.7V8?

As the title says, I am looking for a 16 tooth reluctor wheel (the slotted wheel that the engine crank sensor detects) for a 4.7 V8. Apparently the 16 tooth version is rare as I have only been able to locate the 32 tooth version for many months now. And even if I found one I would have to buy the entire crank assembly and strip it off. Elgin apparently made after market ones years ago but not any more. If anybody knows where I can find one or has any ideas besides buying a used crank (with a 16 tooth) please let me know.
 
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:58 PM
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I will move this to the 2nd generation Dakota sub-forum.
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:59 AM
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you can always have a machine shop make one for u. is this on/ for your 2002?
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:07 AM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain...408#vi-content

cheapest i could find

have you tried dodge yet?
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:21 AM
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you might also call these guys and see if they can help
http://www.cloyes.com/
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sl2racer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Chain...408#vi-content

cheapest i could find

have you tried dodge yet?
Thanks! This is what I was looking for. I do know a fabulous machinist, we already designed and built a biodiesel preprocessor and an oil cleaning centrifuge that I use as a biodiesel preprocessor (cleanser for the WVO stock) so it would be a piece of cake for him to make one, but I have no template and Dodge couldn't provide me with ANY diagrams or specs. I called and left email asking if they had just the reluctor wheel so we'll see.

Thanks guys for the help! This is the only missing part I need to make a 4bt swap into my truck.
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by blhfla
Thanks guys for the help! This is the only missing part I need to make a 4bt swap into my truck.
now i am just jealous. i think i hate you know. hahaha good luck
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sl2racer
now i am just jealous. i think i hate you know. hahaha good luck
Holy cow sl2racer, I just noticed you are in Port Richey. My mechanic's shop is (and therefore the transformation will take place) in Tarpon Springs! It is off 19-A about a mile from where it splits off 19 (just past Anclotte). You are most welcome to stop in and survey the process when it starts (may be a while though). Last year we did a Jeep Liberty diesel swap but that was not so complex - put a 2.8 CRD from a 2005 Liberty into a 2002 Liberty gasser. This one will certainly be more fun for sure. I already have the 4bt and an NV4500, now I just need the other bits and pieces which are mostly sourced except for that pesky reluctor wheel. And after that I plan to replace the bed with an aluminum dump body with fold down sides and loading winch. Like I said should be loads of fun (and money).

I'll probably start a build thread on 4btswaps.com once it gets underway, probably just after the summer. Let me know if you are interested at all. BTW, I bought this truck at auction without keys for $1500, not running. Took it to his shop and within 2 hours it was alive. Have been driving it ever since. If you need a GOOD mechanic and FABULOUS fabricator this is the guy. You should see what we did with my 97 VW Passat TDI - can't keep tires more than a year.
 
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:06 PM
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http://www.airram.com/product.php?ca...productid=1482


Nick, the owner, already tested these out and worked it out with his machinist. Will probably be easier for you.

Little confused though, you mention crank in your OP, but the eBay kit linked it the timing kit. Both need to match to make it work, maybe it is just the wording. In any event, here is the tone ring on the crank.
 

Last edited by dbilik; 04-09-2013 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:12 PM
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Another hint. I am guessing you have the crank you need to swap this tone ring onto. Be very careful getting the screws out of the original 32 tooth tone ring. Most likely they will be really tight. Do not strip them, you will have a really hard time tracking replacement screws for it. I used an impact driver and a high quality snap-on Phillips head to get mine out. Lock-tited it back when I installed the new one.
 


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