FYI, if "they didn't know" the answer to whether or not the 5.2 will "bolt-in" or what the change involves I wouldn't want them working on my truck.

The same applies to the ball joints. They're no different than MOST any other car/truck. On a 4wd the uppers are riveted in from the factory, you drill them and bolt new ones in place. The lowers are pressed in, and then "locked" in place (thanks Dodge - NOT). You can press them out after a bit of work.

Find another shop and get another opinion.

I'm still venting - why not just get the heads done and call it a day. Rebuild the heads, replace the timing chains, water pump, etc. As long as the bottom end is tight you should get another 100k out of it. Do you hear any knocks? How's the oil pressure?

 

Okay, understood... minimal plug-n-play scenarios with this truck...best to go with 4.7L if I don't have the time/money to modify everything.

I knock a little after an oil change but I always add 3 extra quarts and the knocking subsides for a while... But you know, once the black smoke from my tail pipe stops the knocking returns. Either way, nothing I'm too worried about.

I'm only kidding about the extra oil... I usually only go 2 quarts over recommended.

Seriously though, nah, no knocking - no loss of oil pressure. I've had this truck since 25k miles. I've babied this thing as much as possible. Don't get me wrong, I've driven it like a truck and I've hauled some weight but I've never abused it. Ever since I can remember, she's run warm and I have always struggled to keep it cool...even before she hit 50k miles - there were times my temp guage would climb slight above half way when driving up over passes... I'd shut down at summit and chill for a bit let her cool off. I have a feeling that the 1st owner overheated the truck, sold it off and I was the sucker that bought it later on.

The problem was there... it only required time before requiring my attention. Now... I'm wondering what I can do to cheaply get another 125k.

Again - thanks for the advice 00DakDan. Hopefully my beauty will be up and running once more. I'll keep everyone apprised of what happens next. I have to make some decisions in the next few days.

 

Okay guys - after 3 quotes for this work from 3 different mechanics (all outrageously expensive) I've decided I'm going to tackle head gasket replacement myself.

Questions:

1) Anyone recommend a quality gasket set?

2) Can I get away with just removing one head if I can pinpoint which side the leak is coming from?

3) Anything else I should do while I'm in there?

4) Is anyone interested in having me document this or is there enough of that online?

Thanks guys -

 

Well the ball joints are cheap if you DIY them just some hard work and sweat is all the bottom can be hard being a 4x4 but you can do them

Have anyone to help with the heads removal I recommend it take lots of Pic's so you have a record of how things go back together lots of Pic's

 

Felpro or OEM.

Pull both heads. If your plan is just to pull the head and replace the gasket, forget it. You want to have the heads checked for flatness and resurfaced if necessary. A good machine shop can rebuild them for you and, if necessary, resurface it.

You might consider replacing the timing chains while you're in there.

If you don't have a factory manual, download it here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-download.html

You WILL need it. The timing chains are a bit more complicated on the 4.7.

You can reuse the cylinder head bolts, ONCE. If you see paint on them then they've already been used and you need to replace them. It's all in the manual.

Good luck.

 

I have the factory manual... used it for everything else I've done to this truck; water pump, new radiator, power steering unit, etc.

Painting...if I do this, gotta paint some stuff... Old school racing orange valve covers? What's the consensus here?

 

yes the heads need to be worked on at a machine shop may as well get them done 00DakDan is correct he knows the 4.7

This will cost money and time call a few machine shops get the prices

 

Thanks again guys... I'll make sure and update as I go through this work. It'll be quite the learning experience.

 

You're going to save yourself a LOT of money doing it yourself. I can guarantee some headaches, but you'll be proud of your self in the end. Not many people can say they can change there own head gasket, on a newish vehicle. Sure 40 years ago everyone could do it, but that's not the case anymore; its much more difficult. Depending on how much you want to spend, I'd recommend replacing the PS pump. Mine went around that mileage. Water pump is still original on mine and working properly.

If you can tackle the head gasket, ball joints are a piece of cake as long as you have a pickle fork.

 

I've done the PS pump... Mine went out a few months ago.

Here's the chore list as it stands now. I'm considering the timing chains but given my technical know how, I'm nervous I'd throw my timing off and screw myself.

1) Head gaskets and may as well get the heads machined
2) Intake/exhaust gaskets
3) Oil pan gasket
4) Valve cover gaskets
5) Rear drum brake shoes
6) Front end, upper & lower ball joints

Unless I see something else or break something...

And seriously folks... amid all of this work I was surprised nobody has recommended any performance upgrades. I've been calling around and have been told by a few auto-stores that I might as well upgrade cams and for the cost of machining heads, there's a few performance upgrades there as well... Again - I'm not looking to spend my life savings but if there is a difference of $300 to get another 40 or 50 hp out of this project... why not?