X-tra Lube Oil Treatment
#1
#2
Cant personally say I have used this brand. But let me ask why you think you need it? Or is it just for kicks kind of thing?
While I am waiting for a bit more cash to roll in so I can fix my plenum gasket I use just plain jane gasket sealer that you can get at walmart/autozone. Just to help thicken up my oil a bit so I don't lose as much. IDK if it even helps but in my mind it does!
While I am waiting for a bit more cash to roll in so I can fix my plenum gasket I use just plain jane gasket sealer that you can get at walmart/autozone. Just to help thicken up my oil a bit so I don't lose as much. IDK if it even helps but in my mind it does!
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#5
Questions about X-Tra Lube
I have been using X-Tra Lube for 23 years now. I put it in everything that has a crankcase. I have seen numerous friction tests on this and other products. While there are a few products that seem to be as good as X-Tra Lube, they are more expensive to use. I have never found anything that tested superior to it. It is not designed to stop leaks. It is made from copper and lead dust (soft metals) and fill tiny scratches and grooves on the contact surfaces (hard metals) in the engine or gear box. Left over particles act as microscopic ball bearings between every contact surface. No chemical reactions, no magic tricks.
#6
Well, I will date myself with this reply... LoL, but back when I owned a 80 CJ-7 Jeep, I only used Quaker State oil and only changed it 2 times a year. When I had the engine rebuilt the mechanic said the oil passages were the cleanest he had seen. So conventional oil in this case worked great for 10 years of driving. Todays engines are built with better tolerances than this old reliable vehicle, and regular oil is better refined. It all depends on how much you really want to spend for an oil change. Also the need to change the oil every 3000 is in my opinion a waste of money, since I have seen labels in engine compartments stating change oil every 5000-7500 miles.
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#8
It is made from copper and lead dust (soft metals) and fill tiny scratches and grooves on the contact surfaces (hard metals) in the engine or gear box. Left over particles act as microscopic ball bearings between every contact surface. No chemical reactions, no magic tricks.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 02-17-2014 at 05:03 AM.
#9
FWIW, we run a very high zinc racing oil in the race motor. Says right on it "not street legal" because the zinc will kill the catalytic in a heartbeat. We dismantle the clean the oil filter every 25 passes and change the oil ever 50. By the end of the year, there's a 1/4" thick layer of zinc at the bottom of the oil pan.
#10
X-Tra Lube.
This is an oil additive. It does not go through the converter. (Unless you are pouring it in the gas tank.) I have used this product for over 23 years. It has never created a problem. There is no similarity to slick 50. Copper and lead happen to be an excellent lubrication enhancer and it is easy to prove with a friction machine. If you will remember lead was a lubricant in gas until the converters started going on the cars. Bell Performance has been in business over 100 years. They made the world's first fuel additive in 1909 for the Model T. Google X-Tra Lube and see how many complaints you can find.