New to this forum, owned jeep cherokees for last 25 years, now have a 2000, 2dr Dakota with 3.9L engine, base model, 91,000. After having it in to the dealer for P1740 TTC/OD codes looked at (bad selenoids replaced), the service writer said AC compressor bearings or maybe was clutch is extra noisy. Dealer cost was $800 to replace, considering a junk yard replacement, but wondering what brands of aftermarket compressors to stay away from. I have Advance Auto, AutoZone, PepBoys, Napa to choose from, anybody use any of these brands with success? Anyone have good luck with E-bay compressors, price ranges from $135-240. Did try spraying pentrating fluid around the clutch, quieted it down for a while, but still noisy when using AC.

 

Welcome to the forum...

The AC compressors at parts stores are all pretty much the same manufacturer, just have different labels on the box. I put a Napa reman compressor in my truck a few years ago. Napa used to use Four Seasons as their supplier for AC/heat/cooling parts, I don't know if it is the same now. Napa will make you also replace the receiver-dryer and fixed orifice tube, plus show a receipt for an AC flush product. This is in the fine print on the warranty on their compressor, plus it makes sense. When a compressor goes bad it can send grit and shrapnel through the AC system. Mine did not do that but I replaced the other parts anyway. The Napa compressor has done a fine job, my AC has been ice cold since I replaced everything and had the system charged. Rock Auto has good prices on AC compressors but who knows how much the shipping would be, heavy as compressors are..Personally I would stay away from a junkyard unit, unless maybe they can give a warranty or somehow prove the age/mileage on the donor truck.

Jimmy

 

01SilverCC is correct on everything

I would ad this buy new not reman if you live in places were you use the A/C a lot like in Arizona or Texas as you use it so much.

A flush is usually not needed unless you had the Black Death or a catastrophic compressor failure metal bits in the system

Replace the orifice tube first this will tell you something about your system like dose it have metal bits in it or is it black.

DIY the compressor is easy but not easy can be hard if you don't know what you are doing and how to make sure you have all the system oil in and how to recharge the Freon.

 

This will make the clutch not work I don't think its the bearing its the clutch

Not good as the clutch works by friction don't do that

 

I am pretty sure its the clutch, since all the noise is produced when the AC is activated. I see the clutch in-gaging and I do have cold AC from the vents, so the pump is working fine, even with a shot of pentrating fluid. It was quite for most of the day, until kids took it out and probably had AC on most of the evening, now it sounds like marbles rolling in a can, next step looking on line for the best price on a remanufactured unit.

 

I paid a shop to evacuate the AC system, then I bought the parts and replaced the parts myself and had it re-charged after I was done. I saved a total of about $600.00 on parts, shop supplies and labor.

If OP decides to buy a compressor at Advance, he could use one of their online discount codes:

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

I have saved a lot of money on parts with AAP's coupon codes. Especially when it is the exact same part they sell at some other parts store. I will always do the research and be sure the parts are the same, or see if AAP is using a better/worse supplier. Sometimes even with the code it is better to spend a little more to get a better quality part.

If you shop at Auto Zone they will accept other parts stores' coupons. Pep Boys always runs a $20.00 off $100.00 coupon every month on their web site. I don't buy parts at Pep Boys but I sure have used their coupon several times at Auto Zone.

Jimmy

 

If you look at the front of the compressor does it look like it is scored?(like a ring in the metal of the outer clutch plate?). If so the clutch is slipping and SOMETIMES you can take the nut off the end and remove a shim to make the clutch engage a little firmer.
I wouldn't recommend this as a permanent fix, but if funds are low or whatever it is possible to do.
The clutch is magnetic and when you energize the A/C it pulls the clutch against that plate and it can get weak over time and slip.

 

I bought a reman compressor on eBay a year ago, it was a Sanden unit as is OEM on these trucks. I also replaced the receiver/drier ($40) and orifice tube $2. Definitely do all three, it isn't much more to ensure the system is cleared of any debris if the compressor is toast. Mine completely fried, turned the inside of my hood a nice black color and made terrible noise. Blew it on I-15 between LA and Vegas in 116 degree heat... sucked!

I had it evac'd at a shop and did the replacements myself, don't forget new o-rings for all the connections you undo ($3), put it all back together and had it evac'd again to ensure it had no leaks and recharged, had ice cold air ever since. Might have been $250 for everything including the recharge.

 

I would never put a used compressor on my truck.

I would put a remanufactured one from 4 Seasons in, with a new receiver/dryer & orifice tube. I live in Tucson, I've had mixed results with rebuilts, the last one I did was on an old Olds 88, and the compressor went about 2 years before the bearing pooped. You can get the specs for the system, buy the appropriate ester oil and add it to the compressor & new receiver/dryer.

I would do a general system clean out. You can do it by spraying system cleaner in what remains of the system after you've removed the compressor, receiver, and orifice tube--then spray lots of compressed air to remove the cleaner--I usually do it twice. Be sure to soak your o-rings in ester oil. Use all the parts supplied, btw.

I have one of those inexpensive 115v vacuum compressors sold on the internet and a manifold set from Harbor Freight tools. Don't get one of the air activated vacuums--they're junk. I like to run the compressor for about 1/2 hour, then close the valves on the manifold and let it sit at least 8 hours. First can of R134a is an oil charge, second one is a dye charge, and then 2-12oz cans of Polar Kool (or is it Arctic Kool?) in the low side. I've had pretty good results. For me, buying the tools to do the job myself has really paid off--a/c labor seems to be the most inflate labor rate in the auto industry (and they don't price compare for parts.)

 

Thanks 01SilverCC, the coupon codes from Advance Auto worked great, saved $50 on a remanufactured compressor.