The reason they were so difficult is because it was holding the weight of the differential. I have the tires off and the truck on jackstands to the frame, so the front end was basically hanging there.

I tried jacking up the front dif but still had a hell of a time, but it was slightly easier.

I'm now getting ready to lift the engine. All connections are out of the way, bellhousing bolts are out, engine mount bolts are out.

Only difficulty now will be separating the transmission from the engine - I read that a lot of the time the dowel pins will be stuck and rusty.

 

Nice thread,I will keep watching this....

 

Well this weekend she was coming out:
IMG_20130908_124923_972_zps428c2a05.jpg

I ended up just doing the top part of the engine mounts... I really don't see why the Haynes manual calls for removing the frame-to-engine mount bolts while the engine-to-engine mount bolts work just perfect. I left them in and it was a breeze lifting the engine straight up.

IMG_20130908_141827_278_zps283a8f0b.jpg

And here is the engine bay without the engine. It gave a little trouble coming off the transmission thanks to the dowel pins but a few shakes and wiggles and out she came.

IMG_20130908_141820_397_zps73eb14e5.jpg

The engine is now up on my stand and I'll be pulling the timing cover off to have a look at the chain. I purchased a timing gasket kit before when I was going to rebuild that donor engine so I figured why not.

I noticed that the Haynes manual says there is 2 bolts from the oil pan that I need to remove in order to get the timing cover off... Will removing these 2 bolts cause me to have to replace the oil pan gasket too? I'd really rather not because the gasket here goes for $50 which is insane.

Cheers

 

Make sure you support the front of the torque converter while you have the engine out, otherwise the weight of it sitting on the seal can cause it to leak after you put it back together. It's not a bad idea to replace it while you have the thing apart anyway.

 

Transmission is supported.

I have a bottle jack and a block of wood on the transmission pan.

 

I mean the torque converter itself. Like bolt something across the bellhousing to hold it straight so it doesn't sag.

 

we use baling wire. But usually, the input shaft and pump support do a good job of holding the convertor up.

 

I went out this morning before work and noticed it was sagging ever so slightly. I pushed it back and seated and didn't move. I wedged a nut gently under the teeth of the torque converter so it wouldn't sag and it looks fine.

Thanks for the tip.

 

" noticed that the Haynes manual says there is 2 bolts from the oil pan that I need to remove in order to get the timing cover off... Will removing these 2 bolts cause me to have to replace the oil pan gasket too? I'd really rather not because the gasket here goes for $50 which is insane."

Only if you damage it. On my 96, the original pan gasket was neoprene and was okay when I pulled the pan off, just cleaned it up with brake cleaner and sprayed it with copper gasket spray (pan surface, too.)

If you're pulling off the timing cover, I'd replace the front main seal, too. And as long as you have it out and on the stand, pull the pan and do the rear main, too. This will require some retorquing the main bearings, of course. But it will give you a chance to clean the pan out and have a look at the bottom end.

 

Before I go dumping more money on seals and gaskets I wanna see the engine running first. If I have any problems with it running I'm taking it back as it came with a 6 month warranty.

Don't wanna void the warranty which started 2 weeks ago so Id like to get it in the truck running for a while.

If it leaks I'll spend the extra time and money replacing seals. Not all that bad of a job pulling the engine. Especially now that I have everything labelled.

Thanks for the suggestion though