Harmonic balancer & Seal Dakota 5.9
#1
#3
Don't have a 5.9 but...
The FSM shows it being installed from the outside using a special tool.
(3) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket. Use a small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between timing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(4) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635. Seat the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(5) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft.
(6) Tighten the 4 lower chain case cover bolts to 13N·m (10 ft.lbs.) to prevent the cover from tipping during seal installation.
(7) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft.
(8) Loosen the 4 bolts tightened in step 4 to allow realignment of front cover assembly.
(9) Tighten chain case cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N·m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
The FSM shows it being installed from the outside using a special tool.
(3) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket. Use a small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between timing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(4) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635. Seat the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(5) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft.
(6) Tighten the 4 lower chain case cover bolts to 13N·m (10 ft.lbs.) to prevent the cover from tipping during seal installation.
(7) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft.
(8) Loosen the 4 bolts tightened in step 4 to allow realignment of front cover assembly.
(9) Tighten chain case cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N·m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
#4
Don't have a 5.9 but...
The FSM shows it being installed from the outside using a special tool.
(3) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket. Use a small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between timing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(4) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635. Seat the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(5) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft.
(6) Tighten the 4 lower chain case cover bolts to 13N·m (10 ft.lbs.) to prevent the cover from tipping during seal installation.
(7) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft.
(8) Loosen the 4 bolts tightened in step 4 to allow realignment of front cover assembly.
(9) Tighten chain case cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N·m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
The FSM shows it being installed from the outside using a special tool.
(3) Using a new cover gasket, carefully install chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket. Use a small amount of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at the joint between timing chain cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Finger tighten the timing chain cover bolts at this time.
(4) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635. Seat the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(5) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft.
(6) Tighten the 4 lower chain case cover bolts to 13N·m (10 ft.lbs.) to prevent the cover from tipping during seal installation.
(7) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft.
(8) Loosen the 4 bolts tightened in step 4 to allow realignment of front cover assembly.
(9) Tighten chain case cover bolts to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten oil pan bolts to 24 N·m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
#5
I did one on my project engine (5.2) a month or so ago. You need to remove the timing cover to drive the old one out (can't pry it out that I can see.) I didn't have any special tool, and drove mine on with a dead blow rubber hammer.
I haven't had the motor started, so I don't know if it is gonna leak, but I used the included metal repair sleeve, which was really a pain in the but to get on the balancer.
I haven't had the motor started, so I don't know if it is gonna leak, but I used the included metal repair sleeve, which was really a pain in the but to get on the balancer.