electrical problem
Hey all I'm having a problem with my dash fuse box not receiving power to the bottom row of fuses. My symptoms include abs light, parking light, airbag light, speedometer not working and stuck on 120 mph even when truck off, odometer/trip not working, a.c. and defroster not working but blower comes on and no back up lights. I have tested all fuses and they are fine but fuses on bottom row gets no power at all. Replaced ignition switch, battery and rear speed sensor in pumpkin. I'm at my wits end and I could use some help. Thanks in advance!
2002 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6
2002 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6
The blade fuses tested fine and the bigger square fuses all looked the same but idk how to test them because they don't have contact points. Incase visual isn't enough how would I test those types?
Somewhere from the PDC to the JB there must be a break. Why did you replace the ignition switch?
Can you test for power to the ignition switch? You should have 12 volts at the pink with black wire AND the red wire. These are the feeds to the switch from the 40 and 50 amp fuses.
Can you test for power to the ignition switch? You should have 12 volts at the pink with black wire AND the red wire. These are the feeds to the switch from the 40 and 50 amp fuses.
I replaced switch because the fuses that wasn't getting power (I thought) were controlled by it in the acc or on position and the top 2 contacts in switch were burnt. I will have to check power when I get off work.
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They are controlled by the ignition switch. Somewhere though you aren't getting continuity. If it's a tilt wheel it does happen that the wires break in the column. Find out if you have power to the switch and we'll go from there.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Sorry about not responding sooner but work is a pain lol I checked all the connections and what I find is I'm getting power at the ignition switch from pdc but there is a black/orange wire going from ignition switch to connector 12 on fuse box that controls all the fuses out and I tested for continuity and it shows open. Where do I go from here? All of those wires go into the main harness under dash and I lost it...
From what I can see on the schematic it is a direct connection - there are no splices or joints involved.
Is the pin "hot" (pin 7) at the ignition switch when in run? You could always put in a jumper to bypass it. Use #12 wire.
Is the pin "hot" (pin 7) at the ignition switch when in run? You could always put in a jumper to bypass it. Use #12 wire.



