Acceptable volt meter drop at idle?
Well I THINK I may have figured it out............Maybe. I noticed the idle was around 600 in neutral and closer to 550 when in gear. So I bumped it up closer to 800 (where it should be?) and what do you know, the volt meter does NOT drop off 14 even with the lights on! Could it have been that simple, the idle was too low to energize the alternator circuit? I did buy a new negative cable for the alternator to the PCD, since that was the one with the bare cable and corrosion on the alternator end. It can't hurt right?
Well I THINK I may have figured it out............Maybe. I noticed the idle was around 600 in neutral and closer to 550 when in gear. So I bumped it up closer to 800 (where it should be?) and what do you know, the volt meter does NOT drop off 14 even with the lights on! Could it have been that simple, the idle was too low to energize the alternator circuit? I did buy a new negative cable for the alternator to the PCD, since that was the one with the bare cable and corrosion on the alternator end. It can't hurt right?
I guess it had been adjusted before. A small torx bit fit right in there and I just gave it a little clockwise turn. The OEM spec idle is 800 right? Now is that in neutral or in gear?
there's supposed to be a pressed-in steel cap over the idle adjustment screw, that has to be drilled out or otherwise forcibly removed. No idea what the spec is. Heck, i dont even know what mine idles at, never pay attention.
Well I THINK I may have figured it out............Maybe. I noticed the idle was around 600 in neutral and closer to 550 when in gear. So I bumped it up closer to 800 (where it should be?) and what do you know, the volt meter does NOT drop off 14 even with the lights on! Could it have been that simple, the idle was too low to energize the alternator circuit? I did buy a new negative cable for the alternator to the PCD, since that was the one with the bare cable and corrosion on the alternator end. It can't hurt right?
Last edited by gnelson49; Oct 17, 2013 at 11:37 AM.
The "idle speed" adjustment is actually the minimum air adjustment and there's a very specific way it's supposed to be adjusted (though I don't know off the top of my head what it is). The idle speed itself is controlled by the PCM through the IAC.
It's possible your IAC is bad, since the PCM would normally close it down to compensate for your throttle blade adjustment and maintain the "desired" idle speed.
It's possible your IAC is bad, since the PCM would normally close it down to compensate for your throttle blade adjustment and maintain the "desired" idle speed.
The "idle speed" adjustment is actually the minimum air adjustment and there's a very specific way it's supposed to be adjusted (though I don't know off the top of my head what it is). The idle speed itself is controlled by the PCM through the IAC.
It's possible your IAC is bad, since the PCM would normally close it down to compensate for your throttle blade adjustment and maintain the "desired" idle speed.
It's possible your IAC is bad, since the PCM would normally close it down to compensate for your throttle blade adjustment and maintain the "desired" idle speed.
I am thinking it may be something within the PCM itself. I know the durangos and some dakotas had issues with the PCM getting too hot and capacitor connections separating causing the vehicles to shut off. I wonder if it is related, but not worth replacing the PCM IMO. I can deal with it...
I have replaced the IAC at least twice along with cleaning it numerous times. It will improve while the PCM relearns the IAC behavior, then it is back to the same thing. Only happens when it gets cold outside, below freezing or at least below 40F. Really bizarre, has done it for as long as I have owned the truck, going on 7 years now. I just lightly tap the gas when I come to a stop to keep the idle up and voltage in the 14V range. It is annoying and can be dangerous, I have had it die on me coming down from the ski hill when I am downshifting going into a corner.... not the time for the steering wheel to lock up and lose power steering and brakes!
I am thinking it may be something within the PCM itself. I know the durangos and some dakotas had issues with the PCM getting too hot and capacitor connections separating causing the vehicles to shut off. I wonder if it is related, but not worth replacing the PCM IMO. I can deal with it...
I am thinking it may be something within the PCM itself. I know the durangos and some dakotas had issues with the PCM getting too hot and capacitor connections separating causing the vehicles to shut off. I wonder if it is related, but not worth replacing the PCM IMO. I can deal with it...






