On Monday my '01 2.5L, 5spd manual, with 164,000 miles started running rough and after putting a reader on it said, "#4 cylinder misfire detected". Plug was fouled with coolant. I took it to a professional and he confirmed the symptoms for a blown head gasket or cracked head. Quote for the head job was $1700. I figure since I would really like to keep the truck I will spend to just replace the motor with a remanufactured one. I don't know anyone that has ever replace an engine so I am looking for recommendations for a source. Some background on the pick up, I purchased it when it had 3 miles, I have never ever over heated, even when it started running rough on Monday the temperature was normal, I was very consitant with 3000 mile oil changes. Any help will be appreciated.

 

I would first do a compression test and see what that tells you

If it shows a problem I would pull the head and do a self inspection should be easy for a 2.5L

You never know just having the head fixed/replaced may be all you need

Worth a try you may get away with around a $300 fix the head

The 2.5 is a long lasting engine unless you have been trashing it 165K is not that much

Why it happened ????

Don't know

$1700 to pull and fix the head is rather high its an easy DIY fix on a 2.5 engine

Do it yourself not hard at all save a ton of money

 

What he said ^

Being an in-line motor, not hard at all to pull the cylinder head and replace the gasket. If it never got overheated, the head shouldn't be warped. Just pull it, replace gasket, put head back on. Hell, the 2.5 is a small enough motor, you could probably pull the head off with the motor in the truck and be back on the road in three days.

 

Yes exactly

Just remember new bolts they are one time use never reuse them around $30

# 4 is the hottest cylinder



New gasket set same $$

 

Would you feel at all comfortable doing the work yourself? You'd need to buy a Haynes manual, a torque wrench ($10 @ Harbor Freight,) and other tools, some valves and maybe guides and a valve grind gasket set.

First step is to take the head off and drop it off at a machine shop to let them evaluate it. Then have them do their stuff, then you put the head back on (and all the associated stuff that goes with that.) Even if the head is toasted, you can get another one, all rebuilt, from Rockauto.com for less than $5 hundred.

$1700 is way, way out of line. to the "professional" that gave you that quote. It's way beyond the worst case scenario quote, even. I'd run it past some other shops, I think.

If you can get away with new head gasket and throw in a valve job I think that probably 3 or 4 hours shop time, some parts, and a machine shop charge, outside price would be about $700 maximum.

It's a relatively simple engine to work on, I think.

 

Back to your original question, tho. You can get a long block--remanufactured engine from Rockauto.com. I'm a fan of Rockauto, not just because they are usually the best on price, but because they support home mechanics and automotive hobbyists.

If you go the whole engine route, be sure to budget in money for a flywheel refinish, a pilot bearing, and a complete clutch kit.

 

All good info cept for the harbor freight torque wrench. Imo its worth the money to get a quality one. Borrow one from a friend or ask around for a good one. Something like this I wouldnt want a cheap one telling me if its torqued or not.

 

I agree a quality tool

Brian sparked some good points especially the clutch have you replaced it yet?

My clutch started slipping at 110K had to get it replaced I must admit I tend to wear my clutch out faster than most.

Point have you replaced it yet if not its due soon think on that it may change what you do.

update

I just remembered something you have a different trans than I have you have the NV1500 my older 1998 2.5 has the AX-15 trans so it probably has a different wear period.

 

IMO I would skip the whole taking it to a machine shop thing. Pull the head, lay a straight edge across it lengthwise 3 times (edge, middle, edge), then cross wise between combustion chambers, then finally corner-to-corner diagonally. If it checks out straight, just replace the gasket and put the head back on.

Ideally, you can pull the head and instantly see where the gasket is blown between the water port and the combustion chamber.

 

I guess I'm not a gambler, and I'm cheap.

I would take it to a machine shop for inspection because I don't work on engines that much and would appreciate a more educated set of eyes to look things over. And at 160,000 it's probably time for a valve job.

As for Harbor Freight, I've had good luck with my micro torque wrench. Decent quality and seems to work accurately. If I was young and rich, or running a repair shop I'd spend more. For a tool I hardly ever use, it's adequate and affordable. If there's any question of accuracy, have it checked by the machine shop or an engine builder.

That said, I have a Snap on click type 1/2 in. torquer that I got for my 22nd birthday--almost 40 years ago. In the early 70's when the minimum wage was like $1.60 per hour it was $50--a birthday present from my Dad. Best gift I ever got, and I still keep it in the red blow mold case after all these years.