Rock Auto.com has your clockspring, brand new for $30.79. I don't know what they might charge you for shipping. Rock has great prices most of the time and nearly all of their parts are OE quality or better, but you have to watch their shipping. If it ships from a different warehouse or they have to ship from two different warehouses they will get you on the shipping charges. Sometimes their shipping makes up more than the difference between Rock's lower price and the price at local parts stores. That being said, Rock has always treated me right. I am about to order over $400.00 worth of exhaust parts for my truck. Rock is the only legit online retailer I could find that carries the catalytic converter/pipe assembly I need.

Rock also sells the cruise switch for your steering wheel, either $44.79 or $50.79 depending on what brand you choose. I did not spend a lot of time looking but Rock may have other OE cruise parts for your truck too. Seems to me that by the time you buy all the parts to do the OE cruise it could wind up costing a lot more than an aftermarket cruise. I only paid $200.00 for mine. The shop where I got it offered installation for another $100.00 but I did it myself, it was not very hard. The hardest part was locating the speed sense and tach input wires. Both were at the PCM on my truck.

No offense intended here but I would not buy a clockspring or any other steering wheel/airbag part at a junk yard. That is definitely a part I would only buy new just because of the safety factors involved. It is not real hard to R&R the clockspring but the air bag can make it intimidating. I guess it just depends on which way you want to go with it and whether you can find all of the OE cruise parts. Some shop or store out there probably has some NOS cruise parts you can pick up for cheap but you may have to dig deep online and on the phone to find them. Plus you need to find a Dodge dealer to flash the PCM with the DRB scan tool. Maybe there is a Dodge shop near you that will do it cheap like they did for Dan, but a DRB is the only way to flash or program/reprogram your PCM.

Jimmy

 

The little women is delayed Shocking I know. Well gosh dang. that is a smoking price for a new clockspring. that is a no brainer. I think they get almost that much at the upullit. I will definitely check that. If I can get the clock spring new. I don't think the junk yard switches will be that bad, and the servo is ok used as well.
I checked Rock Auto for my clutch hydraulics, I am not sure why I went with someone else. I will look at them now.

thanks a bunch

 

You have the install about right. There are connectors in the steering wheel for the switches. Take a look at a parts truck.

The only thing you need to program is the cluster, not the PCM, so that the "CRUISE" indicator comes on. It will work just fine without it.

 

ok at the Upullit, I got both steering wheel cruise switches and a cruise servo with 6 month warranty for $46 + tax. I got a new clock spring coming from Rock Auto, $36 delivered. So for under $100 I should have all the parts for the cruise, And if it works without a cpu re-flash and all I am missing is the dash light, I could have a working OEM cruise for $80.
I did try and get a clock spring. but it pretty much fell apart in my hands. The switches are from a '00 Dakota, and the servo is from a '99 durango
I hope to have it all together by Friday.
Thanks for the tip on Rock Auto. I did not try for a new clock spring, because the new ones for the Cherokee are about $150. So what is the deal there. '98 Cherokee clock spring $150 minimum, '98 Dakota clock spring $35. Once I started looking. I found that thr $35 price is pretty average for that spring.
I also put in a request to Dodge.com for a build sheet. I have not heard back from them. I normally don't have any problems getting build sheets from the dealership, but I thought I would try the internet we will see how it works.

thanks again: will report back when it is installed

 

a little update for installing the factory cruise with mostly junkyard parts and a new clock spring. For me on the interior the switches and the clock spring are not going to be all that is required. on the inside of my steering wheel the mounts for the cruise switches are not tapped, and the fairing behind the wheel is different. So basically I need the whole steering wheel assy and clock spring from a cruise equipped truck. So back to the UPullit I go. I already have the wheel pulled on the donor car,
I was thinking I would have cruise tonight.
Rock Auto did a good job with the clock spring. I ordered it on Tuesday and got it today.

So not quite as simple as expected

 

Yes the back plate is different. I think mine used self tapping screws.

Sorry, it's been a while.

 

The screws to mount the switches are torx, machine screw. I should be able to get to the upull it tomorrow

 

ok just under a 2 hour round trip drive to the upullit. 2 minutes to pick up the steering wheel that I had already pulled the other day. left got a half a block away and thought I better go back and get the steering wheel horn pad. sure enough they are different.
got home went to install all of it pretty straight forward: Well it all went together pretty well. I am pretty sure there is some difference in the airbag charge.

I know you all are chomping at the bit for results. Well the cruise does not work, and I now have an airbag light.

To re-cap my truck is a '98 Dakota Sport 2wd v6
The junk yard donor was a '99 Dakota 2wd with a small v-8 with cruise and tilt wheel.
from the donor I pulled and installed the steering wheel, cruise switches, and horn pad, and the cruise servo, and both air bag horn pad brackets. I only ended up using one of the air bag brackets I bought and installed a new Dorman clock spring from Rock Auto. I re-used my old airbag and airbag charge, and one of the 2 airbag retainer brackets. I also had some trouble getting the airbag/horn pad to fit back. It seemed that the one of the donor airbag brackets was hitting in the wheel. I put one of my old bracket on and it seems to fit like it should. Also when I was futzing with this bracket swap, the airbag wire came under strain and the cap for the air bag connector came apart, there is a little resistor in there. I put it all back and snaped the connector back together, but I really did not check to see if it was all ok.

So a couple of questions What is the 2 wire connector that runs under the steering colum to the knee panel under the wheel. it goes from a separate part of the clock spring fixed section, it has a yellow plug and about 1.5' of wire to reach to the knee panel under the wheel. I had trouble with this connector, not wanting to make a full connection. What is that 2 conductor connector for?????? Airbag or cruise???

 

Yellow is airbag.

I know I didn't have to do anything like what you had to do. I literally put the new back plate (plastic trim) on the steering wheel and everything else went right in.

Do you have continuity to the cruise switches? They are multiplexed so you should see some resistance all the time and a change when you press any of the switches.

 

I am not so concerned with the cruise just now. I want to get on top of this airbag problem. so the airbag is the yellow 2 conductor cable that runs under the wheel to the Knee panel???? If so I need to check that connector. It went together , but not all the way, it did not click and lock.
I just have to assume the cruise switches are good. The donor truck was in nice condition. I can check them for continuity. working with the airbag makes me nervous. I don't know why the little connector under the knee panel did not go all the way together, it all looks good
What a huge pain in the *** this has turned out to be.
I will try and take a picture of the wire under the wheel to see if we can confirm if it is really the airbag