the forward portion from the cross member over can be plumbed up for the mount and make no differance you need to be looking at supention componits. i would be pulling th bumper and trying to get it on and alignment rack. getting the heads on it and finding out how bad it out, this will be the easiest way. for get the toe that ****ed just from the inpack to the tire. look at camber and caster. also measure ride highs off the life all the way down the frame make sure it semi close to the other side, ( not all lifts are true level on the locks) also the front bumper it really east to get off as is the fender. lucky for you the wiring can all be moved across the hood well you replace the fender.

 

If you have the room, you can get one of those 20 foot tents - when assembled they're about the size of a single car garage. I've used them as enclosures for painting and did some winter work in one on a jeep (warped valves) - in the summer for painting they're good (I lined mine with plastic sheet to keep dust out), and in the winter I found they aren't quite as good as a garage, but with a propane construction heater, they're comfortable enough to work in (just don't aim the hot air at the tent walls). For the floors, I used some cheap construction plywood (2 layers of 3/8 sheathing) and a tarp, but you might want to make something more solid if you would be using jack stands.

Good luck with your fixing, it won't be easy but you can look at it as character building

 

A question why didn't the insurance Co. total it?

Why are they not getting it fixed?

Why is at your home not a yard?

 

if you read, he had liability only. With insurance costs going up, full coverage is not worth it anymore, especially on anything older than 3 or 4 years and definitely older than 6 years. I doubt that any more than 20% of vehicles on the road are fully covered. only 1 of our 3 vehicles is covered, the 2011 ram, and we'll be dropping it to liability next year. It's gotten to the point that banks require anything they hold the title on to be fully insured, because they've had vehicles wrecked out from under them.

 

Yup liability only. We switched insurances (recently) and saved a ton of money. Not going to mention names but we switched from "that farm insurance" to the lizard insurance.
All full coverage now.

Anyway it's been snowing quite a bit so progress is turning out to be very slow. Today it warmed up so i did what i could before my ratchet broke and i could not find my other metric set of sockets.... sh** happens. From what i can see now things look okay. I'm currently warming up from the cold weather

My working enviorment


What i got off




The frame

 

I know, I know, we don't want to turn this into a discussion of the relative merits of different types of insurance and the various insurance companies. And it certainly varies from state to state.

I have Progressive. (I changed from Safeco a coupla years back.) It's about $550/yr for me--no claims or tickets for 5 years and I am in an older age bracket. That price is for full coverage, and when I did the audit with the agent, it turned out that the full coverage wasn't that much (maybe $125 a year) more. It's not costing hundreds a year to keep the full coverage. I get road service, too.

Dropping the full coverage does make sense, I guess, if you can afford to write out a check for the down payment on something to replace your totaled vehicle. Kelly Blue Book on my rig is about $4200 for fair condition with my mileage. So, I'm guessing I could reasonably expect about $3000, which would be a decent start on something else if I wrecked my truck.

 

They've required collision and comprehensive since at least the 1970's. I'd bet a bunch more than 20% are fully covered, btw. Anything with a loan against it is covered--I wonder if those title loan shysters require full coverage?

Insurance costs reflect the potential for loss. Where you live makes a difference, as does your driving record. And vehicles cost so much more than they used to, repair shop costs to fix more complicated vehicles are up, too, and that's gotta influence costs.

 

I pay 130.00 a month for full coverage on my ram. 250 deductible and compressive through state farm. I cant ever see having liability on anything unless its a 2,000 beater. I even have full coverage on my atv. My pap and gram were state farm agents for close to 40 years. Never had a problem even after my pap retired.

 

"A question why didn't the insurance Co. total it?

Why are they not getting it fixed?

Why is at your home not a yard? "


I think insurance companies use a percentage like 75% of book value to fix as a cutoff. My VG condition '02 Durango SLT had only 72K on it when it got hit 4 months ago and was totaled (pic in my album). The air bags didn't even blow.
I was offered the option to buy it back if I wanted to fix myself. Both frame extensions in front of the k-member were pushed to the left so I opted out of that.

 

Part of the problem in favor of the insurance company is how inflated most estimates for repair at shops are now they pump those things up and up makes you wonder if they get any kickbacks form the insurance company's.

I had a small fender bender in 2008 and they wanted to total it just for a new fender and bumper with a few small other parts.

I said Bondo it and give it back that's all it needed well and one bumper a new tire that they put the cheapest tire they could find on, one flat and it was toast the side walls were so thin.