it does?

I must be blind. What page so i can look it up too?

 

It's definitely tweaked. If it didn't impact the area where the control arms attach, a shop may be able to bend it back, or depending on how bad the bend/offset is, you *might* be able to get the body mount to still go in place. Remember that the body floats on the frame. As long as the body goes together, you can always find a way to make it attach to the frame. The first goal of that is getting all that crap sawzalled off and/or unbolted so that you can actually see the whole area. Then you can take a good core support and set it on there (or use measurements) to see how much it actually bent and/or if a body mount would still make it in the notch.

This photo is deceiving, but both body mount holes are oblong (at the very end of the frame rail). The driver side looks round from dirt and shadowing. It's a very narrow window as the body mounts are an exact fit for the hole, but nothing a little persuading didn't hurt. Mine were mangled when the bolts snapped, but Ace hardware had the bolts in the right size and length so i just beat the body mounts back in the holes and put the bolts in.

 

After I take everything apart I will decide whether or not I should invest money into fixing the truck. We (as a family) already have 3 good running cars, one that is completely new.

 

Chapter 13 pages 8, 9, and 10. It gives you all the dimensions and elevations.

 

-bows down-

NOTE: MILLIMETERS! Divide by 25.4 for inches!

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This saves me the trouble of needing to break out the other computer thanks!

 

The number between the center-center core support mounts is 37.9 inches. You can't measure the diagonals to the cab corners with the drivetrain in the way, so you'll have to go off that.

Also, i find it interesting that the distance C from the front centerline to the forward leaf spring mount is the only dimensional difference between the 4x4 and 4x2 chassis- the 4x2 dimension is 17mm (~3/4") longer/further back.

 

Thanks Magnet for posting them.

 

You can measure the diagonals but you need to do it underneath and you need two or three plumb-bobs. I would suggest putting a large sheet of paper underneath (taped to the floor) and using the plumb-bobs, mark all the horizontal points on that paper, then when you pull the paper out, you'll have an easy time measuring. Start with good plumb-bobs and you'll get good data - a bolt on a string isn't accurate enough to give you the exact point. For the vertical measurements, I recommend using 4 jack stands with jack screw adjustments on the head - with these, you can get the frame parallel to the floor (many instructions say that you need to have it level - this is only good if your floor is level) and then make your vertical measurements from the floor to the points on the frame. I usually use some tape to mark those points exactly so that there's NO guessing.

After the accident, did the insurance company have any shop look at it for an evaluation, or was it just the adjuster that had a look? If it was a shop, you should be able to get a report from your insurance company to see what they thought the damage was - this might show you whether you have a yard full of scrap metal or something that's salvageable. Even if your frame is good, there's a lot of wrenching to be done there, so you need to evaluate how much time and money you have to do that. I'm assuming you have a basic tool kit, and once you get started, you'll quickly determine that the basic kit isn't enough - that's where a bunch of money comes in and the rest is for parts that you can't get from a junkyard. This truck isn't very new, and if it's been on winter roads with salt etc., you'll find a lot of fasteners underneath that are going to be removed only by destructive measures (your body mounts would fall into this category) - this can mean more tools or buying someones expertise.

 

Unfortunately the truck was dropped from full coverage to liability a month before the accident so insurance didn't cover any expenses at all.At the time I can't even work on the truck without freezing to death (-0 F) . I envy those who have a garage. Also I do have an arsenal of tools, everything from basic tools, pneumatic tools, jacks and stands, electric and even stone cutters! Everything but a garage. Whenever it warms up above 0 I will get that bumper and fender off I'm sure that the frame is bent.