Quick story:

Got home Friday after work to a smoking driver side front brake, took it apart saturday morning to find I had a seized piston. I decided to just go ahead and replace both front calipers (rotors and pads are new a few months ago).

In my infinite wisdom, I took the calipers off then ran to the parts store for new ones, thinking I would be back in plenty of time before the master cylinder dripped dry.... I hit some traffic and didnt make it.

So, a mentioned the master cylinder went dry, I replaced the calipers, and started to try to bleed air out (after topping off MC again).. I bleed for hours, no luck. Gravity bleed, manual bleed, vacuum bled.. no pressure, nothing.

I took off the MC and bench bled it, still no pressure, even went and bought and installed a new MC (my brakes have never been very good, and not nearly as good as the wifes durango of the same year).

So, after bleeding and bleeding and bleeding.... what else could it be?! I have no pressure, running or not and I dont see any leaks...

Tips, tricks?

Thanks
Nate

 

Do you have RWAL or 4 wheel ABS?

You should be able to bleed RWAL as you would any brake system. If you have 4 wheel ABS you need a scan tool to operate the hydraulic control unit.

The recommended order of bleeding the "base" system is: R Rear, L Rear, R Front, L Front.

 

I am not sure if it is 4 wheel or not, how can I tell?

I know just enough about brakes to replace hardware at the wheels, and a normal bleed.....

also, this in an 03 quad cab 4wd if that matters

if i need a scan tool to cycle the hcu will i get NO pressure until then?

 

If you have any wiring going to the hubs on the front you have 4 wheel ABS. You should also see the hydraulic control unit by the master cylinder. All the brake lines will connect to it.

Without cycling the HCU you can't get the air out of it so you'd have very spongy - no brakes.

This is from the FSM:

STANDARD PROCEDURES - BLEEDING ABS BRAKE SYSTEM
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.
(1) Perform base brake bleeding.
(2) Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
(3) Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then BLEED BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
(4) Perform base brake bleeding a second time.
(5) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.

 

I saw that in my service manual... Was realllyy hoping it didn't pertain to me...

I have a small box on the drivers fender that my two steel lines out of the mc go to, I'm assuming that's my issue and it indicates I have 4 wheel abs and need an abs scan tool?

 

It sounds like you have 4 wheel ABS. Can you post a picture of the box?

 

I towed it to a shop with a DRB3 tool, still cant build pressure. Guy at the shop thought it might be the reman'd master cylinder. I still have my old master cylinder, I may try to bench bleed and reinstall it, then bleed at all the wheels again, maybe even gravity bleed them.

I just cant win with this thing.

 

this is a picture of the box I mentioned. Upon closer inspection only one port of the MC goes there, the further one towards the front of the truck

 

I had a similar experience with my 03' QC. Mine is 2wd though. Bled it like three times. Brakes were spongy but I drove it for a good while and they eventually hardened up.

 

I've never liked the brakes in my Dak. Replaced the front brake lines and a bleeder screw on one caliper and bled the brakes for a LONG time.

Tried the 1 & 2 man method until finally I got firm brakes. Almost too firm now.

Definitely bleed all brakes starting at the passenger side rear wheel like Dan mentioned.

Good luck