I am at a loss when it comes to constant brake issues with my 2002 Dodge Dakota V6 with rear wheel abs. I continue to have random rear wheel lockups and front calipers that will not grab or will seize at times. Causes truck to skid to a stop or not stop at all. I have found no fix. I have checked everything related to the brake system on this truck 100 times over, along with multiple brake specialist that can't find anything wrong.

If you have had your rear brakes lockup at random times along with front calipers that seize or don't grab, what did you do to fix your brake issues once and for all.

I have bleed the brakes, changed calipers, rotors, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, ABS sensor, Drums, shoes and everything under the sun. Still no fix
for a dangerous brake problem on my dodge dakota.

 

My understanding is the ABS can be turned off try that and see if the problem stops.


How to turn it off I don't know someone other than I can tell you that.


If it stops then you know its an ABS problem

 

You can't turn off the ABS short of pulling the fuses. There are two, one in the PDC under the hood and one in the JB on side of dash.

You'll lose your speedometer and have the ABS light on.

Have you checked all 3 of your flexible hoses? They can fail internally and get spongy. They can also occasionally act as check valves - keeping the brakes applied.

Check the caliper slides for wear. They can develop grooves that cause the pads to stick.

Most drum brake problems are caused by improperly adjusted brakes. Don't rely on the self adjusters. Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? The smaller shoe goes on the forward (primary) side. Did you lubricate the shoe contact surfaces? Is there any sign of contamination?

Improper friction material can also cause poor braking.

 

Thanks for the info. Everything you mentioned has been done. Front calipers and rear drums are all installed correctly showing no signs of problems. Brake lines and front hoses are in great shape. I have had three different shops look at my brakes for visible issues and none are found. They have even been able to duplicate the problem getting the rear brakes to lock, but can't find the cause. No ABS warning light. I thought I had this issue fixed when I replaced the rear wheel cylinders after one was leaking, but the problem has returned and no leaks this time. I am totally lost on this one. Brake issues have been on and off with this truck since it hit 28,000 miles.

 

I found this write up elsewhere on another forum:

"I just thought I'd share my experience with my rear drums locking up with a very light pedal pressure.

First the background....

I have a 2002 Dodge Durango SLT+ 4X4 with the 4.7L V8 with 145K. I recently replaced the rear drum shoes, drums, hardware, and for good measure, the brake cylinders. Everything went together fine, however, within a day or two, I started to notice that the slightest brake pedal pressure at low speed (under 15mph) would lock up one or both rear wheels. In essence, the rear drums were grabbing too much.

I removed the drums, checked out everything, and all seemed in order. The shoes were definitely glazed a bit so I sanded them along with the drums. Took it back out for a test drive and it was still grabbing. The parking brake works great and the shoes are definitely adjusted perfectly.

I initially thought that the proportioning valve(s) were somehow faulty. These make sure that the front brakes activate first then the rears. However, after I did some looking around (on here and on AllParDIY.com), I quickly realized that my Durango does not have a separate proportioning valve(s). As a matter of fact, the major hydraulic items in this barake system are: Master Cylinder, Rear ABS module, Front calipers, rear brake cylinders, 3 distribution blocks, and steel and rubber brake lines. That's it.

The RABS module is only connected in-line with the rear brake line. It definitely works because evertime the rear drums lock up, the unit modulates the rear brakes to maintain traction.

I was thinking that maybe I purchased some really grabby rear shoes and/or they are just crappy aftermarket parts. But, after doing MANY rear drum shoe replacements in my life, this is the first time I have ever heard of a problem like this.

So...I took a gamble and decided to replace my master cylinder. I took it out yesterday and replaced it with an aftermarket rebuild from Autozone. Good thing I did. The first thing I noticed was that the piston seal was leaking! I looked inside the booster and there was quite a bit of brake fluid inside. I pumped it out with my brake bleeder pump. There must have been at least 8 oz in there!

After transferring the reservoir and bleeding the master cylinder on the bench, it looked to me that the proportioning feature is built right into the master cylinder...but I am not sure. I replaced it, and went out for a test drive.....PROBLEM SOLVED!

The rears were noticeably less grabby, and they are even less so this AM. In fact, the D is braking better than it has in a long time.

I AM A HAPPY CAMPER!"



Something to think about, check out.

 

Thanks for your reply. I also have changed out the Master Cylinder and still having issues.

 

Have you tried unplugging the ABS sensor off the rear Diff and see what happens I'm sure you will get a warning light but ignore it check it out.

Your speed will not register but worth a try to see if things improve.

Use caution I have never done this but all it should do is cut off the ABS and speed on the dash.

Worth a try

 

I experienced "grabby" rear brakes on a car I once had. After I replaced the drums, shoes and hardware is when it started. I kept removing the rear wheels, lightly sanding the shoes and drums, and readjusting the shoes. That would make it go away for a short time. I believe the problem was the humidity because the brakes would be real grabby after it would rain and the car hadn't been driven for a day or two. I had opted to go the "cheap route" and bought the cheapest drums and shoes I could find. (All made in China, I might add...) I think the shoe linings would draw in moisture and cause it to grab because when I would drive it, if I rode the brakes for a little bit and got some heat in the linings, it would quit grabbing. I'm not saying that it's the same problem you're having, but it might be something to consider. You get what you pay for.

 

Very true considering your brakes are important quality parts are recommended. Drums are drums but quality rotors and pads can make a big difference if I remember correctly 75% of all braking is done by your front brakes/disc brakes so your front brakes are very important. Spend on high quality front everything will net you the best results. The rear drum brakes are just along for the ride you could say but they are important in controlling your vehicle in a hard braking condition slamming on the brakes.

 

Even if the hoses look good on the outside they can have internal issues. After spending as much money as it looks like you have might as well replace the hoses.

Also read somewhere the the rear breaks only supply 20% of the stopping power. Front does 80%.

The proportioning valve sounds like it has issues to me. Basically when you step on the brakes peddle proportioning valve doesn't send fluid to the front brakes until the rear brakes have pressure.

You may try to bleed all the old fluid out of the brakes and completely flush the system.

Just for its and giggles unplug the BIG fuse for the ABS computer and see how the brakes acts. On my 2000 Blazer the peddle would THROW you knee back into the steering wheel. It was very dangerous and I'm 6'2" 270lbs and it would throw my knee up. Chevy dealer said big money to fix. I unplugged the fuse and got the ABS light on and just regular brakes but no other issues and that was 6 years ago.

Could also be the ABS computer itself. Could be a wire somewhere.

Just some things to try. Keep at it I know you'll get it.