Might buy quad cab w/ bad motor
#1
Might buy quad cab w/ bad motor
UPDATE: I bought the truck. See post #6 for more details.
I'm looking at buying an 01 quad cab 4x4 w/ about 150000 miles. It's got a 4.7 in it with a bad valve seat on one cyl.
What do you guys think I could get away with as far as a repair. If I buy it I'm debating between swapping in a ramanned engine or just doing some head work. Do you think that a block with 150K on it would do well with a set of performance heads and a tuner?
And do you have any tips on a good place to get a new motor or new heads (stock or performance)?
I'm looking at buying an 01 quad cab 4x4 w/ about 150000 miles. It's got a 4.7 in it with a bad valve seat on one cyl.
What do you guys think I could get away with as far as a repair. If I buy it I'm debating between swapping in a ramanned engine or just doing some head work. Do you think that a block with 150K on it would do well with a set of performance heads and a tuner?
And do you have any tips on a good place to get a new motor or new heads (stock or performance)?
Last edited by TheNewbie; 05-05-2014 at 06:13 PM.
#2
As long as the lower end is fine I'd swap the heads, put on a new timing set, and call it a day. If you can, pick up some heads at your local boneyard, and rebuild them before you put them back on.
If you have any doubts go remanned. Some guys like Jasper but check around, there may be some shops near you. Make sure it is fully warranted. One caveat, if you do decide to swap the engine make sure that it has the 16 tooth tone ring. You have the early JTEC style engine controller. Later models use a 32 tooth that is not compatible.
If you have any doubts go remanned. Some guys like Jasper but check around, there may be some shops near you. Make sure it is fully warranted. One caveat, if you do decide to swap the engine make sure that it has the 16 tooth tone ring. You have the early JTEC style engine controller. Later models use a 32 tooth that is not compatible.
#3
#5
A rocker arm wold be much easier to repair though right?
#6
I just bought this truck for $1800. Now I need to figure out the best course of action to get it running again.
This is what the service tech working on it had to say:
Compression test showed:
1 - 120
2 - 0
3 - 150
4 - 120
5 - 150
6 - 150
7 - 12
8 - 135
I won't be able to work on this until at least next week so I'd like to do my homework on what to look for before then. I'm planning to pull the head and inspect the block and pistons. I just have a few questions though...
1) Can a dropped valve seat cause bottom end damage?
2) Is the low reading on cyl 7 possibly due to the problem with the valve on #2 or is that another problem?
3) With the way the rest of the compression numbers look do you think a simple head swap would be good or should I be looking at a full long block?
This is what the service tech working on it had to say:
E valve on cyl 2 was stuck down and the follower had popped off. Used bore scope and found the valve seat looks like it has dropped down not allowing the valve to shut completely. Will need head removed to inspect further.
Getting code for P020 injector #2 control circuit. Found the PCM sending ground voltage to injector and ADS positive voltage is also present. Recomend 1 injector cyl 2.
Getting code for P020 injector #2 control circuit. Found the PCM sending ground voltage to injector and ADS positive voltage is also present. Recomend 1 injector cyl 2.
1 - 120
2 - 0
3 - 150
4 - 120
5 - 150
6 - 150
7 - 12
8 - 135
I won't be able to work on this until at least next week so I'd like to do my homework on what to look for before then. I'm planning to pull the head and inspect the block and pistons. I just have a few questions though...
1) Can a dropped valve seat cause bottom end damage?
2) Is the low reading on cyl 7 possibly due to the problem with the valve on #2 or is that another problem?
3) With the way the rest of the compression numbers look do you think a simple head swap would be good or should I be looking at a full long block?
#7
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#8
Or it was overheated.
1. As long as the piston isn't hitting the valve there shouldn't be any bottom end damage, from the valve.
2. The valves in one cylinder will not affect another. They aren't even next to each other. You have another problem.
3. Can't tell. The compression numbers won't tell us how the bearings/bottom end is.
1. As long as the piston isn't hitting the valve there shouldn't be any bottom end damage, from the valve.
2. The valves in one cylinder will not affect another. They aren't even next to each other. You have another problem.
3. Can't tell. The compression numbers won't tell us how the bearings/bottom end is.